DB marked

JesseSks · February 01, 2020, 08:03:11 PM

Another DB. Purchased this SKS from SOG during their closeout sale. Has matching numbers except for the magazine. blueing on receiver cover and gas tube totally gone, someone put shellac or some type of varnish on them. stock has no serial numbers only has stamp under buttplate

running-man · February 01, 2020, 09:29:15 PM

That’s certainly an honest DB. Receiver photo is a bit fuzzy, but looks to be a Lushun City gun symbol after the DB which matches the S/N format.

Odd about the gas tube and receiver cover in the white and covered with some type of protectant. Could be just about any reason for that but darned if I can think of a good one.

The character(s) on the stock under the buttplate is a new one for me. Never seen that before. Neat find.

Phosphorus32 · February 01, 2020, 09:43:11 PM

Yeah, that marking under the buttplate is definitely a first in my experience. I’ve seen markings under the buttplate on Mausers and Mosins but never SKSs.

JesseSks · February 01, 2020, 09:43:37 PM

I better photo of the reciever

running-man · February 01, 2020, 10:01:10 PM

Nice. Definitely a Lushun mark on the receiver. CJA import too. I wonder how long that gun was in SOGs possession? It was imported way back sometime pre ‘92.

JesseSks · February 01, 2020, 11:45:09 PM

Quote from: running-man on February 01, 2020, 10:01:10 PM
Nice. Definitely a Lushun mark on the receiver. CJA import too. I wonder how long that gun was in SOGs possession? It was imported way back sometime pre ‘92.

Good question. I purchased it from them in August of 2018

Randy · February 02, 2020, 05:34:28 AM

A wild guess here. That coating on the bare steel might be rust converter. That's what it dries like when there is no rust to convert.

From Eastwood company- Eastwood Rust Converter must be applied over heavy rust. If there is no rust present, there will be nothing for the product to react with and adhere to. You will only see it convert rust in the areas where rust is present.

The surface should be clean and dry before application of Rust Converter. If moisture is present or the surface is damp, it can cause the product to dry milky white or not adhere to surface.

I've never seen it not adhere, but I have seen it dry that nasty white-ish/yellow-ish shellac color. No guarantees, just a thought.

JesseSks · February 02, 2020, 08:30:33 AM

Quote from: Randy on February 02, 2020, 05:34:28 AM
A wild guess here. That coating on the bare steel might be rust converter. That's what it dries like when there is no rust to convert.

From Eastwood company- Eastwood Rust Converter must be applied over heavy rust. If there is no rust present, there will be nothing for the product to react with and adhere to. You will only see it convert rust in the areas where rust is present.

The surface should be clean and dry before application of Rust Converter. If moisture is present or the surface is damp, it can cause the product to dry milky white or not adhere to surface.

I've never seen it not adhere, but I have seen it dry that nasty white-ish/yellow-ish shellac color. No guarantees, just a thought.

Very interesting thought. Here is my dilemma, would you guys strip the rust converter/ varnish from the receiver cover and gas tube and re-blue them, or would you just leave it the way it is?

Phosphorus32 · February 02, 2020, 10:05:08 AM

If it has a coating like a wood finish I’d strip it and just oil the metal afterwards. I wouldn’t reblue. Reblued with cold blue will leave you with parts that have a different color from everything else and no natural wear.

Randy · February 02, 2020, 06:01:23 PM

Another thought because I never had a reason to strip the equipment parts. Go to the Eastwood site or any site that sells rust converter and see what they recommend for stripping it.

If it were mine I'd try everything I had in my house and shop first on small areas with maybe a q-tip. I can't say what won't hurt the steel because all steels are different and gun steel from that era is one I'm not familiar with. Unless there are opinions that say it's a bad idea I personally would start with a tried and true...alcohol. If it doesn't do anything, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, gasoline, transmission fluid (it's great at cutting rust and grease), fingernail polish remover (the old kind made of acetone), even dawn dish soap or simple green. Whatever ya got before you go buy some expensive stripper that you will use one ounce of and waste the rest of the quart. If, of course plain hot water and a nylon scrub brush with a lot of elbow sweat doesn't do it. Some things just require sweat to accomplish.

JesseSks · February 05, 2020, 09:36:15 AM

Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 02, 2020, 10:05:08 AM
If it has a coating like a wood finish I’d strip it and just oil the metal afterwards. I wouldn’t reblue. Reblued with cold blue will leave you with parts that have a different color from everything else and no natural wear.

thanks for the advice my friend.

Quote from: Randy on February 02, 2020, 06:01:23 PM
Another thought because I never had a reason to strip the equipment parts. Go to the Eastwood site or any site that sells rust converter and see what they recommend for stripping it.

If it were mine I'd try everything I had in my house and shop first on small areas with maybe a q-tip. I can't say what won't hurt the steel because all steels are different and gun steel from that era is one I'm not familiar with. Unless there are opinions that say it's a bad idea I personally would start with a tried and true...alcohol. If it doesn't do anything, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, gasoline, transmission fluid (it's great at cutting rust and grease), fingernail polish remover (the old kind made of acetone), even dawn dish soap or simple green. Whatever ya got before you go buy some expensive stripper that you will use one ounce of and waste the rest of the quart. If, of course plain hot water and a nylon scrub brush with a lot of elbow sweat doesn't do it. Some things just require sweat to accomplish.

thanks for the sound advice my friend

Randy · February 05, 2020, 06:45:13 PM

Quote from: JesseSks on February 05, 2020, 09:36:15 AM
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 02, 2020, 10:05:08 AM
If it has a coating like a wood finish I’d strip it and just oil the metal afterwards. I wouldn’t reblue. Reblued with cold blue will leave you with parts that have a different color from everything else and no natural wear.
thanks for the advice my friend.
Quote from: Randy on February 02, 2020, 06:01:23 PM
Another thought because I never had a reason to strip the equipment parts. Go to the Eastwood site or any site that sells rust converter and see what they recommend for stripping it.

If it were mine I'd try everything I had in my house and shop first on small areas with maybe a q-tip. I can't say what won't hurt the steel because all steels are different and gun steel from that era is one I'm not familiar with. Unless there are opinions that say it's a bad idea I personally would start with a tried and true...alcohol. If it doesn't do anything, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, gasoline, transmission fluid (it's great at cutting rust and grease), fingernail polish remover (the old kind made of acetone), even dawn dish soap or simple green. Whatever ya got before you go buy some expensive stripper that you will use one ounce of and waste the rest of the quart. If, of course plain hot water and a nylon scrub brush with a lot of elbow sweat doesn't do it. Some things just require sweat to accomplish.
thanks for the sound advice my friend

Don't forget...advice is only as good as the amount you paid for it! It is given in good faith from my end, but should not be considered as expert advice.

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DB marked