Rust removal options...is Evapo-Rust any good?

[echo83]

Hello all,
     I have some surface pitting/old rust that I'm trying to get rid of. It doesn't affect function, but it's ugly and I don't want the damage to spread.
     
     I'm leaning towards Evapo-Rust at this point, and my plan is to test on a small area before doing a general application.

     Has anyone used this stuff before, or would you recommend a different product?

[Phosphorus32]

Personally, I'd just use oil and a brass brush or bronze wool.

The Evaporust MSDS says it has "proprietary non-hazardous chelating agent" which is likely the relatively strong organic acid citric acid. It also contains detergent. The acid will remove bluing if left in contact for some unknown period of time. It is a water based product with detergent so it'll strip away any residual oil in the pores of the bluing. Therefore, if you use it make sure to dry thoroughly and reapply oil to the metal surfaces.

[Larry D.]

Lately I've been using a bit of oil and a brass brush in a Dremel tool with pretty good results.

I seem to recall something about boiling smaller parts in water to convert rust, but I don't remember the details.

[Boris Badinov]

Gun oil and #0000 steel wool works miracles on light surface pitting.

[Justin Hell]

This has worked wonders for me...and it's dirt cheap....and re-useable

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

[Greasemonkey]

Gun oil and #0000 steel wool works miracles on light surface pitting.

Have to be very careful and go light with steel wool, it can remove the finish.. bronze wool is softer and less likely to damage bluing.


One thing that you question before use of rust removing products.... What is blueing?? It's metal thats been chemically or in another way been oxidized, it's technically a form of corrosion and wear resistant rust, corrosion and wear protection varies in type from the lowly quick cold blue, to standard blueing to stuff like Tenifer on Glocks.. So be careful with something like those chemicals.

   
     I'm leaning towards Evapo-Rust at this point, and my plan is to test on a small area before doing a general application.

Straight from their website.. https://www.orisonmarketing.com/evapo-rust.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NTxBRDxARIsAHyp6gAs13yVimdKnREo5hH0fF6U_6tp8I-6qF9fzZ14E03su_H-si-TdIAaAjB_EALw_wcB

EVAPO-RUST® is highly recommended by the NRA gunsmithing school and has been utilized by FBI, CIA, NATO and other law enforcement and forensics agencies. EVAPO-RUST® is perfect for removing weapon finishes such as Bluing, Parkerizing, Zinc Phosphate, and Browning.

[Randy]

Has anyone used rust converter? That is the way I was leaning. I used to use the rattle can stuff from NAPA on equipment at work and it seemed to do a reliable job. But that steel was entirely different from gun steel. (semi trailers, crane booms, truck frames, etc.) We used it by the gallon also. But the spray on stuff seemed to cover more uniformly. It turned lightly rusted/pitted steel a nice black color. But the rub is that there HAS to be visible rust present, if there isn't, it dries to a nasty lightish color. I never tried to remove any of it so not sure about that part.

My thinking here is to spray some in the cap and use a line making artists brush size of applicator and dab it into each pit. 

[astronut]

Not to hijack the OP's thread on the Evapo-Rust question but along them same lines, how about OSPHO rust killer solution?  I wonder how it would work or not work on firearm rust and affect or not affect blueing or other finishes?

[echo83]

I'm not as worried about removing the blueing, since mine doesn't have a lot to begin with. In fact, taking into the white, the soaking it down with oil to prevent rust might not be a bad thing.

I'm more worried about damaging the steel itself. I'm not planning on soaking mine, but reviewers have said that if it's left on too long, Evapo-Rust will leave the metal with a coral-like feel. I'm planning on pouring it on, collecting it in a pan because it's reusable, wiping down, then pouring it on again.

[Phosphorus32]

Not to hijack the OP's thread on the Evapo-Rust question but along them same lines, how about OSPHO rust killer solution?  I wonder how it would work or not work on firearm rust and affect or not affect blueing or other finishes?

Ospho is phosphoric acid, an inorganic acid that is very effective at removing rust and bluing.

Like GM said, bluing and rust are just slightly different forms of oxidized iron. All chemical rust removers are going to be acidic and effective at removing both rust and bluing.

[ahedgpe]

Frontier 45 pad works great for me, removes the rust while preserving the bluing. It's also great for cleaning out the bore.

[jmaurer]

+1 on the oil and BRONZE wool. Don't use steel wool. And be careful with the bronze wool, too: too much can also remove remaining bluing. Or try this: if the rust is not advanced to the degree that the metal is deeply pitted, take a scrap of firm wool cloth and use it (with oil; Ballistol's good) to smooth it out and (hopefully) make the rusty area less noticeable.

[Boris Badinov]

+1 on the oil and BRONZE wool. Don't use steel wool.

For light surface rust pitting #0000 steel with gun oil will not damage factory Hot bluing. I have done this with several rifles. I was able to remove all surface rust with no change at all to the level of bluing. (Though it may remove any DIY cold blue applied by previous owner)

[Randy]

Rust itself is not a cancer, the steel is oxidizing so that steel has to be protected from further oxidizing. The only way I'm aware of is to get oil or some other coating into the microscopic pores of the steel.

I have an out of date method that I use to waterproof mild steel. I have no idea whether it works on harder steels. But I've used this process on mild steel and subjected that steel to rain and wet conditions for over two decades now with not a spot of rust.

Again, I say I don't know how it will react on gun hard steels.

The process leaves a black finish so it might or might not be a glaring refinish.

It's actually simple, but it does require high heat and pure bees wax. No other wax will result in the same finish. BTDT.

Heat the part up evenly until a drop of bees wax smokes when laid on the steel. It's GOT to boil and smoke when laid on the steel. It doesn't need much because it will spread out a lot. Keep it hot or go a little hotter. Add another drop of wax and wait til it has burned itself out. It actually helps if the wax flames up on the steel, that way the steel is hot enough to open the pores and let the wax inside. Do not go to any visible heat in the steel, that's too hot. I can't give an actual heat temp because I never needed to know.

Obviously there are risks with doing this not the least of which is warping the metal if it gets too hot or is cooled too quick. Then there is the risk of tempering the steel. The risk of self inflicted burns...BTDT! Wax is something you NEVER want on your skin when it is this hot and melted... But the good news is...bees wax smells great! Burned or otherwise.

Polish the steel with some fine steel wool and the steel looks like it is a nice black blued color. It's shiny, smooth, and slick too.

But the disclaimer is real, I've never tried this on a gun.

I am a buskskinner, I re-enact the fur trading times of the 1940's-1850's. This was the steel weather proofing choice of the era, not guns, but steel like wrought iron. It works, and it works good.

[echo83]

I appreciate the feedback.

For now, I'm taking it slow. The most rusted/pitted part is my receiver cover, which is totally in the white anyway. I used Bar Keepers Friend on it, using a dishwashing sponge to avoid scratching the steel. I then dried it and immediately oiled it, which worked fine.

If I see any rust where the blueing remains (I've got a 1956 ghost, so there's barely any blueing left) I'll probably go with a soak, or the bronze wool and oil route. I'll keep you posted.

[Randy]

I think you misspoke a little. I don't think you will find more rust where the bluing remains. However, since bluing IS rust, that can be debatable. 

[jjjxlr8]

This has worked wonders for me...and it's dirt cheap....and re-useable

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

This stuff is magic.  It's the only thing I use on lightly rusted blued surfaces.  Works surprisingly well without damaging the original bluing.  It also works on other metal finishes besides blued and is great to wrap around an old bore brush to clean up neglected bores.

[jjjxlr8]

+1 on the oil and BRONZE wool. Don't use steel wool.

For light surface rust pitting #0000 steel with gun oil will not damage factory Hot bluing. I have done this with several rifles. I was able to remove all surface rust with no change at all to the level of bluing. (Though it may remove any DIY cold blue applied by previous owner)

Boris - you need to try some of the Frontier45.  It works SO much better than steel wool and you don't have to be as careful as you do with steel wool.  Steel wool can scratch any blued finish because it's harder than the bluing.  This product is also only $6 shipped to your door! 

[Bob_The_Student]

I love me some Frontier 45. Works great imo!

[carls sks]

This has worked wonders for me...and it's dirt cheap....and re-useable

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/
[going to try this, thanks.  /quote]