I can't get the G$!@D!$@# trigger group back on!!

[Matchka]

LD, ship me the link, por favor.

[running-man]

I won't post any links here without permission, but if anyone is interested, PM me.

No harm in posting a link to another site on this board.  Go right ahead. 

[Matchka]

LD, Yes, please. I'd like to snag a couple of those AK kits. Danke schoen.

[OldManBryson]

Yeah.  Me too, please.

[Larry D.]

I won't post any links here without permission, but if anyone is interested, PM me.

No harm in posting a link to another site on this board.  Go right ahead. 

Here you go, fellas.
Terry is a good guy to deal with.
If you think it will help, tell him I referred you.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212901

[Matchka]

Thanks, LD!

[Larry D.]

You're very welcome.

[OldManBryson]

Thanks, Larry

[jmaurer]

Here's what works for me, with the exception of a single, non-matching Bubba'd late Arsenal 26:

Position the safety as others have mentioned.
Make sure the magazine is fully "home".
Make sure the pins in the trigger group are fully "home".
Place the butt on a table or other suitable working surface (not the wife's glass-topped stove or porcelain-topped whatever), with the muzzle pointing straight up; I usually have the receiver to my left, and the trigger group to the right.
Place your left palm over the receiver, the center of your right palm over the trigger guard, and intertwine/interlock your fingers.
Now, compress the receiver and trigger mechanism together by pushing your palms together.

Like I said, I've only had this NOT work on a rifle that was an obvious assemblage of mismatched parts. I've never had to take a mallet to the first one; the difficult one only required a bit more pressure than hands could apply, and I did that by putting the receiver down on a wooden work bench, and then pressing down on the trigger guard with my right palm. But if you do this, make SURE that you've placed the takedown lever back in the the receiver and locked it into place; it will easily swing down when you least expect it against the table, and you may bend the @#$% out of it before you realize what's happened!

[1mlt]

.... I been there with a couple TG's. And I'm such a patient person  ! This gun sounds like nothing but trouble when you sell this trouble maker let me know. I will discipline it  !

Glad you got it back together. As far as the cleaning rod I don't actually use cleaning rods on the guns. I use Tipton (Amazon) rods to protect bore. Good luck!

I don't use rods of any kind either. I use "snakes" to protect the bore. You can buy a 'cleaning kit' that has several snakes and brushes. Otis brand is very popular. Or you can buy 'snakes' at places like Academy that are caliber specific. I have both.
Marcus

[jmaurer]

A big Plus 1 on the Otis stuff; that's about all I'll use on modern firearms of any sort. But if I'm out shooting SKSs or Mosins, I always carry the original implements and a two-compartment "oiler": one half filled with USGI WWII bore cleaner, and the other half Ballistol. Patches are usually those I've cut from a roll of Galazan bore cleaning flannel (the stuff with the red stripes, which when cut at the stripes usually end up being perfect for SKS or Mosin jags). Neutralize the salts with the milky USGI bore cleaner, dry, and then run a patch with Ballistol. THEN, when I get back to a civilized setting, clean and monitor for a couple of days with Otis tools and brushes. If possible. But if not, by following this practice religiously for about 10 years now, I've never had the first bit of rust show up. And I shoot corrosive-primed ammo almost exclusively.

[Ghost51xxx]

Everything went fine until it was time to put the trigger group on.
I made sure it was on safe per the stickie on field stripping.
What's the f@#$*^g trick?
I'm about ready to go get a snootfull & I don't drink!
Can someone please help?

Another thing that might make it a little easier to assemble is to add some grease to the locking tab thing.

[Rick O Shay]

 
I have a Romanian and a Norinco . The Romanian pops Right back together I use a padded C-Clamp on the Norinco. it has a Non matching number on the stockand is a little tight in places