Could someone please help me with this?

Started by OldManBryson, February 09, 2019, 08:47:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

OldManBryson

I traded for this several years ago & it's been in a case ever since.
The gun looked good, all numbers matched, good rifling, etc.
The other day I decided to fieldstrip it.  I'm glad I did.  It was obvious the gun had never been stripped as there was quite a bit of cosmoline still on it.  After getting a gallon of mineral spirits and a parts brush, it's about time to put it together.
My question is, can someone help me date this thing & tell me if it's worth anything or not?  Thanks in advance.
Here's a pic of the markings on the side.



best 10 line poems

Phosphorus32

23rd year of production Type 56 = 1978.  /0412\ was one of the low output Arsenal's. If it's original and in good condition it's worth about $350-400, since it's matching, likely the upper end of that range.

running-man

Welcome to the files!  You have a year 23 type 56 there from arsenal /0412\ (year 23 = 1978).  I have year 22, 23, 24, and 25 guns from this arsenal. 

As for what it's worth.  In all matching condition with all the original parts (what we would call as-issued here at SKS-Files), it's probably around a $400  carbine.  Maybe a little more to someone who wants a carbine from this arsenal (this is a less common arsenal and you don't tend to see tons of these carbines floating around vs. the high volume arsenals like /26\ and /636\.  If non-matching take off $50 to $100 and if bubba'd with a plastic stock and missing serialized components like the magazine take off $100 to $150.

Looks like a nice one, thanks for sharing & I hope you enjoy it here!  thumb1
      

OldManBryson

Thanks for the replies.  It's greatly appreciated.
I assume I should just leave it stock & not put a scope on it?

running-man

It's your gun to do with what you want.  If the iron sights and your eyes don't mesh well, there is no reason not to try to make your shooting experience better.  Many will tell you to sell a gun that is as-issued and use the proceeds to buy an already bubba'd gun and you can tweak that to your hearts content w/o messing up a piece of history.    There are pros and cons to all of it though. 

I will say that the receiver cover scope mounts are notoriously hard to keep zeroed and many of the ones that utilize set screws to help stabilize it wind up marring the finish as bad or worse than you would do if you just drill and tap the receiver for a proper solid scope mount. 
      

OldManBryson

I understand.
I guess it'll probably be as accurate as my old eyes can see.

Greasemonkey

Welcome.. thumb1

Don't knock it till you try it....it could very well surprise you thumb1

Typically if you can put a magazine in to one of those man sized targets at a 100 yards.. it's doing what it was designed for.. minute of man..
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

OldManBryson

#7
Is mine a military or commercial model?
**EDIT**. I guess that's kind of a stupid question for a circa 1978 gun.

Greasemonkey

I look at it like, it it adherers to the standard military configuration/design, it's military.

To me, the commercial ones are the non standard types, the Para models, the Ak mag models, thumbhole stock models etc..
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Phosphorus32

If it has the 五六式 (Type 56) marking, like yours, and hasn't been modified, like GM stated, I consider it military (or police) issued.

Loose}{Cannon

Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 10, 2019, 12:01:53 PM
If it has the 五六式 (Type 56) marking, like yours, and hasn't been modified, like GM stated, I consider it military (or police) issued.

Anything post circa 1968 with the introduction and mass production of the T63, and the replacement of the T56 as a result, would find a good home in the militia. 
      
1776 will commence again if you try to take our firearms... It doesn't matter how many Lenins you get out on the street begging for them to be taken.

OldManBryson

Thanks, fellas, I really appreciate your help & info.
I'm sure I'll have more questions in the near future!

Phosphorus32

I see you mentioned oven cleaner in your introduction. I hope you'll consider just gentle heat and paper towels or rags to wipe the grease off of your stock. The sodium hydroxide (lye) in oven cleaner is hard on the wood (one of the chemicals used in the paper industry to help turn wood chips into pulp) and will damage the original shellac.

OldManBryson

Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 10, 2019, 07:19:43 PM
I see you mentioned oven cleaner in your introduction. I hope you'll consider just gentle heat and paper towels or rags to wipe the grease off of your stock. The sodium hydroxide (lye) in oven cleaner is hard on the wood (one of the chemicals used in the paper industry to help turn wood chips into pulp) and will damage the original shellac.

Thank you for noticing that, I appreciate it.
Since there won't be any heat to speak of and I don't have a heat gun, would a hair dryer set on high heat do it?
Will mineral spirits on the wood hurt?  Would it help in the removal of the cosmoline?
I really am anxious to get this back together.
(Please read my oiling & lube thread?)

Greasemonkey

Goop creamy hand cleaner, scrub it lightly with a tooth brush in heavy places and let it sit on the stock for a while will pull out slot of the grease in the wood and won't hurt the finish.

Or wipe it down with lemon oil until the greasy feeling is gone, it won't hurt the finish either.
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem