Restoration questions

[Shotz90s]

Now that I found a stock, I'm going to need a handguard since I couldn't find a matching set. Would it be better to buy just the wood handguard or buy a complete handguard and gas tube assembly? I was leaning towards the metal grater look but have since decided I want it to look as natural as possible. What are the thoughts towards this? Also, does anyone have one they want to part with?

[running-man]

Handguards can be had dirt cheap while complete tube assemblies are often $40+.  If you need to refinish the wood to match your new stock anyhow and already have a good gas tube that fits the gun well, I might go the handguard only route.  If you're going to keep the gun stock config for the rest of it's time with you, a single swap is all you'd ever have to do. 

If you think you might want to go cheese grater in the future, maybe an extra gas tube is the right answer so you could swap one for the other w/o having to monkey with the rivet and ferrule.

[Shotz90s]

What I wanted to do was keep the stock and handguard I have and get a new set to redo in a different color. Thats what I was looking for a new handguard/tube set. It looked like a pain the rear to get that pin out of the existing tube to put into a new one.

[1mlt]

Replacing the ferrell pin isn't so tricky. Dremel off the 'peen', tap it out with a punch, remove the ferrell, remove the hard guard, replace with new hand guard, install the ferrell, use a #6 finishing nail, tap it in place, cut off the excess, reinstall the tube and you are done. You can reuse the old pin, but the #6 nail with the point helps alight the nail and the hole and the ferrell. A lot less aggravation to reassemble.

Marcus

[running-man]

Yup, your best bet is to get another complete tube assembly.  I've seen handguards refinished w/o taking them off the gas tube, results are  in my opinion.  The right way to do it is to pull it off so you can clean everything including the portion under the ferrule lip.  If you take it nice and easy, I don't think it's that bad an operation.  http://sks-files.com/index.php?topic=199.0

Here's an example for what they are going for (misc auction on eBay): http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-62x39-Chinese-SKS-paratrooper-gas-tube-piston-Free-shipping-/231861208363?hash=item35fc01452b:g:a4UAAOSwQYZW1Gwk

[Shotz90s]

Thanks again all. I have a stock and new handguard on order. I'm going to try to take the other one apart with kid gloves. As soon as everything is here I can start sanding. Also picked up a new pin.

[Shotz90s]

I swear, nothing can be easy. I bought a stock from Numrich and was going to just sand it down and finish it in the color I liked. The stock was already refinished in linseed oil (wish that goody was notated). Is there any good way to get that out of the wood? I think I know the answer but I'm not a wood working/finishing professional.

[running-man]

That's a shame. 

Reading on the 'net, it seems you can strip it with thinner or turpentine and elbow grease.  The miracle EZ off oven cleaner method is out there too, but that one sure seems nothing but wrong to me!

[Greasemonkey]

Watch using the EZOff cleaner, it's basically sodium hydroxide, same crap as Drano, or lye, now lye will decompose any organic matter, grease, hair, bodies, yea, even you. So it can do some funky things to wood, discolor it, cause blemishes, just say chemical burn the wood, and do other things like severe whiskering. I know lots of people have used it, had good luck, but the same amount have used it and lets say, it didn't come out quite right.

Purple Power is a decent cleaner, it's got a certain nastyness about it, but it's a little easier to deal with and a little less harsh, or Simple Green.

[Shotz90s]

Wow, this project is getting better and better LOL. No chemical burns for me, I'll have to check PP or SG. Thanks for all the input. At least I know there is a chance now.

[Phosphorus32]

For a fully cured linseed oil (or "boiled" linseed oil) finish you may need an actual finish stripper. Citri-Strip ought to do it. Less preferable is the dichloromethane/methanol/petroleum distillates type of traditional stripper like Klean-Strip.  Get the right solvent impermeable gloves, nitrile gloves are insufficient, and work in a well ventilated area. Yeah, a  bunch of category 4 health hazard materials in that formulation...works like a charm though   

If the linseed oil hasn't fully cured then mineral spirits, simple green or purple power, or similar, may be enough to leach the upper layer out of the stock; at least deeply enough for refinishing. 

The Easy-Off method is a strong base (alkali) like GM mentioned and it'll attack the hemicellulose and to a lesser extent the cellulose (structural fibers) of wood so I'd steer clear of that method except for nearly unsalvageable cases. If you use it, make sure to wear gloves (any water impermeable glove will do) and rinse once with dilute vinegar (a weak acid to neutralize the residual strong base) and then exhaustively with water before drying.

[Shotz90s]

Thanks again. This is all great info.

[Shotz90s]

One more time. Not only was this a linseed stained stock but it also ended up being Russian. There will be no sanding or anything done to it. The star is still slightly visible. I've decided to just do the handguard to match. The rifle already is a mismatched,  lettered Chinese so this actually fits haha. I'll submit pics when I'm done.

[Phosphorus32]

One more time. Not only was this a linseed stained stock but it also ended up being Russian. There will be no sanding or anything done to it. The star is still slightly visible. I've decided to just do the handguard to match. The rifle already is a mismatched,  lettered Chinese so this actually fits haha. I'll submit pics when I'm done.

Sounds good, less is more 

[Loose}{Cannon]

+1.   ^^^