1954 Tula paint chipping?

[bowlsofchips]

I ended up finding a very nice Russian BBQ paint that appears to be chipping in some areas.

Should I be concerned, or is this normal wear with the BBQ finish?

[Phosphorus32]

Welcome to the Files 

Looks like you've got a nice refurbished Russian. I like the laminate stocks.

I don't have a painted refurb but I would expect any rub points to be subject to rapid wear. Most countries that used paint on top of metal(France, Belgium, United Kingdom) used a phosphate (Parkerized) finish underneath the paint, and the phosphating treatment leads to a rougher surface finish that holds the paint a bit better than smooth bluing. My understanding is the Russians just applied the paint over the remaining bluing during refurbishment at one or more of their refurb facilities, so it's even more prone to flaking.

Anyhow, shoot it and enjoy it!

[astronut]

Welcome to the forum!  I would not worry too much about the loss of the paint if it were mine.  Shoot it and enjoy it!

[Direct Connection]

Hey welcome to the boards. Thats a nice find ! Most SkS owners don't run into deal on a Russian SkS their first go around : ) Now your spoiled. Never heard of a bayo fitting so tight over the muzzle like that. Maybe a different country of origin bayo installed at some time. IDK . Good looking gun. 

[Bob_The_Student]

Hello, BOC, and welcome. That is nice looking refurb.

[Bacarnal]

Welcome from Kentucky.  Nice and desirable weapon, BOC!!!  Looks like you were extremely lucky on your first one!!

[Larry D.]

Hi BOC.
Welcome from Arizona.

That's a great looking rifle. Paint flaking is just something a lot of us have had to deal with on a lot of different firearms.
Just gotta love 'em regardless.

[bowlsofchips]

Thanks all, I am very happy with the rifle and was very lucky that it was not listed on any of the main classifieds sites!

I found a site showing the ammo is Ulyanovsk 125 grain. No indication that it is the desirable type of hollow-point, but shooting water jugs shows fragmentation. I've taken it out twice shooting so far, and it's giving me decent groups at 50yds. I bought this rifle as a "one gun" kind of thing so I could stack ammo. Obviously won't replace my deer rifles, but having many years worth of cheap deer capable cartridges puts my mind at ease.

I've shot Tula, Silver bear, Wolf, the Uly HP, and I also had a couple mags worth of some green Chinese soft point (made sure it wasn't steel core before popping them) that was in poor shape. It was HOT ammo, smoked a lot and gave me one FTF stovepipe. Cleaned everything with hot water both times.

I feel slightly guilty putting it's first wear marks on the metal taking it down for cleaning, but I am using a coated cleaning rod and bore snake for cleaning rather than the steel rod, to prevent marring the bore.

I am going to avoid attaching the bayonet to prevent further chipping. I'm wondering if there is a sealant I can run over the edge of where it is chipping to prevent it from traveling up the barrel.

I haven't been able to get the pin out. The pin came free floating, but a small amount of gunk dripped out after soaking in mineral spirits, so I would like to be able to take it down. Are brass punches and hammer necessary for this? I don't want to risk damaging it with steel.

[Phosphorus32]

Thanks all, I am very happy with the rifle and was very lucky that it was not listed on any of the main classifieds sites!

I am going to avoid attaching the bayonet to prevent further chipping. I'm wondering if there is a sealant I can run over the edge of where it is chipping to prevent it from traveling up the barrel.

I haven't been able to get the pin out. The pin came free floating, but a small amount of gunk dripped out after soaking in mineral spirits, so I would like to be able to take it down. Are brass punches and hammer necessary for this? I don't want to risk damaging it with steel.

It's a nice refurb, not a super highly collectible safe queen, so I wouldn't fret over some paint loss from honest use. Not deploying the bayonet is certainly a good idea.

It may help to let the pin soak in WD-40 or your favorite penetrating oil for a while. To drive out the pin you need a hardened steel punch (3/16" if I recall correctly) and place the bolt on a very firm surface with the flange side of the pin (extractor side) down. I use a wood block with a hole drilled through it for the bolt to rest in (pin over the hole) and a solid work bench (4x4 legs) to provide a firm foundation. Smack the punch sharply with a hammer. It should budge. I've never encountered one I couldn't get out though I've had to hit some harder than others.

[bowlsofchips]

Thanks all, I am very happy with the rifle and was very lucky that it was not listed on any of the main classifieds sites!

I am going to avoid attaching the bayonet to prevent further chipping. I'm wondering if there is a sealant I can run over the edge of where it is chipping to prevent it from traveling up the barrel.

I haven't been able to get the pin out. The pin came free floating, but a small amount of gunk dripped out after soaking in mineral spirits, so I would like to be able to take it down. Are brass punches and hammer necessary for this? I don't want to risk damaging it with steel.

It's a nice refurb, not a super highly collectible safe queen, so I wouldn't fret over some paint loss from honest use. Not deploying the bayonet is certainly a good idea.

It may help to let the pin soak in WD-40 or your favorite penetrating oil for a while. To drive out the pin you need a hardened steel punch (3/16" if I recall correctly) and place the bolt on a very firm surface with the flange side of the pin (extractor side) down. I use a wood block with a hole drilled through it for the bolt to rest in (pin over the hole) and a solid work bench (4x4 legs) to provide a firm foundation. Smack the punch sharply with a hammer. It should budge. I've never encountered one I couldn't get out though I've had to hit some harder than others.

Yeah I have come to the same conclusion after researching the rifle that it's in the sweet spot of great condition but not collectible so it is great as a shooter.

[running-man]

If you still have issues with getting that pin out even after trying P32's excellent advice, you might try this trick.

Get a decent sized socket, say a 1/2" to 3/4" drive socket that has a hole big enough through it that will allow the head of the pin to drop all the way out the other side.  Set the socket down on an old, well cured piece of concrete like a driveway or sidewalk.  Set the bolt on top of it and line up your punch on top with the point right against the pin.  Give it some good whacks with a heavy ball peen hammer and she will move.   Oftentimes people have compliant wood or plastic tables, or other less than sturdy surfaces they are trying to use as a backstop and it just absorbs all the energy instead of resisting it as well as nice 4" thick piece of concrete and steel socket will.  That pin will come out, and I suspect you'll be surprised at how much gunk is going to still be in there when get it fully cleaned out. 

[bowlsofchips]

If you still have issues with getting that pin out even after trying P32's excellent advice, you might try this trick.

Get a decent sized socket, say a 1/2" to 3/4" drive socket that has a hole big enough through it that will allow the head of the pin to drop all the way out the other side.  Set the socket down on an old, well cured piece of concrete like a driveway or sidewalk.  Set the bolt on top of it and line up your punch on top with the point right against the pin.  Give it some good whacks with a heavy ball peen hammer and she will move.   Oftentimes people have compliant wood or plastic tables, or other less than sturdy surfaces they are trying to use as a backstop and it just absorbs all the energy instead of resisting it as well as nice 4" thick piece of concrete and steel socket will.  That pin will come out, and I suspect you'll be surprised at how much gunk is going to still be in there when get it fully cleaned out.

Thanks I might combine the advice. I need to get some punches still. Is it still common advice to leave the bolt and pin dry? I've seen conflicting opinions about where to oil the sks in general.

[running-man]

No oil In the FP channel is the rule I typically follow. I usually hit the pin with a very light coat of spray on dry graphite prior to reinstalling it. Anything liquid in there is asking for accumulation issues IMO.  Everyone has their opinion though. 

[echo83]

No oil In the FP channel is the rule I typically follow. I usually hit the pin with a very light coat of spray on dry graphite prior to reinstalling it. Anything liquid in there is asking for accumulation issues IMO.  Everyone has their opinion though. 

Same here. I give the firing pin a quick, very light wipe with Hoppes oil, but leave the channel totally dry. Give the bolt a shake and make sure you can hear the pin rattling freely.

Also, I don't think it's possible to talk about the SKS without bringing up slamfires. It's some sort of law.

By the way, welcome, and thanks for posting up those pictures!

[bowlsofchips]

If you still have issues with getting that pin out even after trying P32's excellent advice, you might try this trick.

Get a decent sized socket, say a 1/2" to 3/4" drive socket that has a hole big enough through it that will allow the head of the pin to drop all the way out the other side.  Set the socket down on an old, well cured piece of concrete like a driveway or sidewalk.  Set the bolt on top of it and line up your punch on top with the point right against the pin.  Give it some good whacks with a heavy ball peen hammer and she will move.   Oftentimes people have compliant wood or plastic tables, or other less than sturdy surfaces they are trying to use as a backstop and it just absorbs all the energy instead of resisting it as well as nice 4" thick piece of concrete and steel socket will.  That pin will come out, and I suspect you'll be surprised at how much gunk is going to still be in there when get it fully cleaned out.

This worked like a charm thanks!

[running-man]

Glad to hear!!