Figured since the cat is out of the bag now I'll post up some pics and we can all see how this works out together. :)) :))
For any and all who haven't read the other thread yet, this was the Gunbroker SKS mentioned in the auctions section 'on the cheap'
It was local to me so I made a local purchase offer and got it for $54.23 OTD
It is a G series 1970 , right in the middle of the production year. Still has a bunch of cosmoline in it and blueing is good.
Gas tube is standard type, not the M59/66 type, but it has no markings so I am not sure if it is off of an M59, Chinese, Russian, or what. Also, the HG is missing.
Box mag is missing. I have a Russian one, but looking at making this a Faux M1A SOCOM 16 and using either the G3, G5, or G9 mag adapter set up Marcus offers. I am going to be buying an AR Upper in x39 so going with the G9 would give me the same mag for both platforms.
Stock is not too bad, but is missing the trapdoor and the cleaning kit in the butt. I may refinish it for the project in a Kona stain and tung oil, but am really interested in trying out the new Choate collapsible stock.(main body looks conventional, but has a pistol grip and coll. butt). Kicking myself now because I had a Ramline Conventional complete and sold it locally right before I found out about this rifle. It would have been a good candidate for this project.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8583/16237512178_eda918f822_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/16399177466_5ea53daabf_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/16424224492_cdd3cd2f7f_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/16237511638_3057038d42_c.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8637/16425150585_8e21c9659b_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/16238925809_6e07b2bb6e_c.jpg)
Someone beat on the carrier/receiver cover a little. I did a quick deburr on the cover as it had a few sharp areas.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/15817353143_3cc99d0e77_c.jpg)
Here is another angle of the bend in the barrel. The tricky part on this, since it is further back than I thought and hoped for, is get the rear area bent back straight without ending up bending the forward part of the barrel over the other direction. I will start by bracing under the front of the receiver and onto the barrel lug. Then brace on the barrel probably right behind the lower ferrule and apply pressure just in front of the RSB where the marks on the barrel are.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/16437423985_3df0ba0172_c.jpg)
Oh, and for anyone who might suggest restoring it to it's original glory......OOPS, too late. rofl2 rofl2
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/16437423775_7e236aabaa_c.jpg)
Bend the barrel, and not screw up the wood in any way....that's pure talent right thar.
OMG, he killed Kenny!!! plumb chopped his head clean off cry1 chuckles1
Put a clean 11degree crown on that barrel to protect the new crown. Contact Ben Murray and get one of his SS gas valves. It will help if you have any cycling issues due to the shorter barrel. I cut mine back to 16 1/4" and it was 'iffy' on cycling depending on the ammo. Ben's valve cured that problem. It's possible you still may need to drill out the holes for more gas.
Good luck on the project. Keep posting pix as you proceed.
Marcus
Would you believe I cut that by hand with a hacksaw? I did clean it up some on my benchtop disc/belt sander afterward though.
It is cut to 17 1/4" and since where I cut it the barrel OD is right at .590" I am planning on threading it to 15mmx1 RH and get a muzzle device from CNCwarrior.
I've always found keeping it that little bit longer has always eliminated having to mess with the gas port.
I did look at the gas valve breifly and, while full of cosmo, it should clean up and be a good snug fit. It was a little tight coming out with the cosmo and that is a good sign.
This is going to be a great project! That thing has more damage that I thought, whoever did that to the carrier and receiver cover needs taken to the woodshed….
Hey GG, what's your plan for the stock (did it survive the whole sad ordeal w/o any damage?!)
If you're going to scrap it, please let me know. We're sending in samples to the lab for analysis and I don't yet have a Yugo 'elm' sample.
How does a conventional gas tube work on a 59/66?
Granted, it looks like bubba and his ball peen hammer met this possibly before the truck ran over it...and I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with Yugos. Mine is a Cherry's that I can hardly bring myself to shoot much less take apart....but isn't the gas block different enough that a standard gas tube wouldn't fit?
Quote from: running-man on February 03, 2015, 07:53:44 PM
This is going to be a great project! That thing has more damage that I thought, whoever did that to the carrier and receiver cover needs taken to the woodshed….
Hey GG, what's your plan for the stock (did it survive the whole sad ordeal w/o any damage?!)
If you're going to scrap it, please let me know. We're sending in samples to the lab for analysis and I don't yet have a Yugo 'elm' sample.
Yes it survived quite well actually. The main body of the stock had some tension on it to the right, but the metal around it(bayonet, cleaning rod, ferrule, barrel, receiver) helped to keep it from being broken up. Which was not the case for the HG. Even though not the correct tube, somewhere along the line it had the OEM wood HG on it and was broken off somehow. The rear ferrule has not been tampered with.
FYI, the stock and other parts I am not going to keep are up for sale in the trader section.
Quote from: Justin Hell on February 03, 2015, 07:55:36 PM
How does a conventional gas tube work on a 59/66?
Granted, it looks like bubba and his ball peen hammer met this possibly before the truck ran over it...and I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with Yugos. Mine is a Cherry's that I can hardly bring myself to shoot much less take apart....but isn't the gas block different enough that a standard gas tube wouldn't fit?
A standard tube will work on an M59/66 as the tube will fit snugly over the end of the gas valve. I have done this a few times to test a Yugo when I didn't have the correct tube available. If the valve is bad you will get a lot of gas blast coming back into your face though. That is what the flared part of the Yugo tube is for. To deflect and gas away from the shooter.
Quote from: Greatguns on February 03, 2015, 08:06:58 PM
Quote from: Justin Hell on February 03, 2015, 07:55:36 PM
How does a conventional gas tube work on a 59/66?
Granted, it looks like bubba and his ball peen hammer met this possibly before the truck ran over it...and I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with Yugos. Mine is a Cherry's that I can hardly bring myself to shoot much less take apart....but isn't the gas block different enough that a standard gas tube wouldn't fit?
A standard tube will work on an M59/66 as the tube will fit snugly over the end of the gas valve. I have done this a few times to test a Yugo when I didn't have the correct tube available. If the valve is bad you will get a lot of gas blast coming back into your face though. That is what the flared part of the Yugo tube is for. To deflect and gas away from the shooter.
:o I didn't know you could potentially sub one out as long as the gas valve was in good shape....the thought of singed eyelashes is a bit scary though.
Since you removed the launcher, are you considering replacing the gas block with a conventional one?
That is an option, but I was planning on getting a Yugo tube so I would have the option of shutting the valve off for a 'bolt action' effect.(save the brass type thing more than anything.)
Yeah, I guess it would be nice to have that option....didn't consider that. I am always just chasing around junk steel cases trying to be environmentally conscious vs. recycling the quality ammo I have never had. chuckles1
Well guys, I got my barrel straightened out today. Here's a pic for ya.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/16467763421_985c8bd2c0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r6cAkx)IMAG0038 (https://flic.kr/p/r6cAkx) by salanw@att.net (https://www.flickr.com/people/131064307@N06/), on Flickr
Alrighty then 'guns! Next we gotta take it out and burn sone powder.
Well, first I gotsta clean the rest of the cosmo out. thumb1
I know I'm not alone with this but I can hardly wait to see the finished product!
Quote from: Greatguns on February 07, 2015, 11:29:21 PM
Well guys, I got my barrel straightened out today. Here's a pic for ya.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/16467763421_985c8bd2c0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r6cAkx)IMAG0038 (https://flic.kr/p/r6cAkx) by salanw@att.net (https://www.flickr.com/people/131064307@N06/), on Flickr
You mentioned earlier the use of a press, but speaking as one who is not skilled in the metalworking arts, I'd certainly be interested in more description about how this is done and how you gauge the straightness of the bore afterwards. I'm enjoying this thread thumb1
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 08, 2015, 12:52:15 PM
...I'd certainly be interested in more description about how this is done and how you gauge the straightness of the bore afterwards. I'm enjoying this thread thumb1
Yeah...what he said!
Quote from: Dannyboy53 on February 08, 2015, 12:57:55 PM
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on February 08, 2015, 12:52:15 PM
...I'd certainly be interested in more description about how this is done and how you gauge the straightness of the bore afterwards. I'm enjoying this thread thumb1
Yeah...what he said!
The seller stated they thought it had gotten run over. I actually have straightened one that was worse than this before. Most of the bend on this one is just in front of the RSB.
Back in the '80s I was a front end mechanic and did a lot of alignments on straight axle and Ford I-beam axles. The process was what they called a cold bend. Basically taking a porta power hydraulic jack system, bracing the axle at 2 points and bending the axle in between to get the camber set.
In the case of the barrel, it is more or less the same process with the difference being I need to find the center of the bend point and using that as my tangent contact point for the bottle jack ram of a hydraulic press I then support the barrel at strategic points on both sides and apply pressure. Similarly to the alignment method I will press the barrel slightly past the point I want it at, hold for about 15 seconds then release and let it spring back. Repeat as needed until the barrel is straight. Because there is no heat applied there is little to no affect on the temper of the barrel.
To check for straightness I have a 3 part system, straight edge on the OD, checking the bore from the rear of the receiver through the muzzle for concentricity(eyeballing it), and laser bore sighting to see how the sights line up. After that I will go to the range and test fire it and repeat the process as needed. They make calibrated gauge rods for checking bore alignment, but I just never bought one.
The other one I did was really bad and I had to go back in for a second bend, that was 6 years ago +/-. All-in-all, it turned out well. I sold it to a friend and he still has it. He gets 3-5" groups at 100yds and has taken a few deer.
Awe man... I was hoping to find step/step pics and details of how you located the sweet spot, supported/ setup the press, and the over travel in action etc. cry1
Lookin good so far! :)
Great work greatguns! Salvaging a firearm that for most would appear to be a list cause :o thumb1
Quote from: Loose}{Cannon on February 09, 2015, 07:09:57 AM
Awe man... I was hoping to find step/step pics and details of how you located the sweet spot, supported/ setup the press, and the over travel in action etc. cry1
Lookin good so far! :)
Yeah, ain't hind sight grand. I thought about that right as I finished my last bend. So, since I was a bonehead and didn't get pics or a video, here is the next best thing. :-[
I can tell you this. For support I used small blocks of 2x4 pine as it is soft and forgiving so it won't mar the finish on the barrel.
I set about a 4" piece under the receiver to a) give fuller support under the receiver and b)keep it balanced on its side since the bend was to the 3 O'clock position as looking at it from the rear of the rifle.
the front block for first bend was placed in front of the gas block/valve assembly and the ram of the press was placed on center about 1" in front of the RSB.
My normal over travel was between 1/4" and 1/2" each time. I like to start out small and work my way up to get to where I need to be.
After a few bends at that location I walked it out keeping the rear support block under the receiver the entire time. I shifted the front block out an 1" or 2" then moved my press point forward about 2"-2 1/2" and gave it a few more bends.
Next I did a couple for bends with the ram right behind the gas block. I then pulled the action out to check where I was at with things. I was close, but not quite there. I placed the front block directly under the gas block and shimmed the block so the barrel wouldn't roll on me and, moving it to where the ram was back at the first position in front of the RSB, gave it a few more good bends. And that was that. I did my straight edge check, my concentricity check, and then my laser bore sight check. Everything looks good so far.
The next step is to clean it and go test fire it. If needed I will go back and fine tune it on the press, but I am fairly confident that I won't need to do that on this one.
Nice work on barrel bending GG. Its really just a lot of common sense & understanding basic soft metal properties & you'v got that nailed! I like using soft pine also on mid point pressure since it gives to conform to the barrel OD some what. I actually love the challenge of bending barrels back straight! I had a trap shooter once have me bend his Rem 1100 barrel to a different point of aim several different times before he finally realized he was just a lousy shot with that gun!
My introduction to barrel bending started in 1981. I started working for Auto Ordnance of West Hurley that spring and was put on the Thompson semi and SMG assembly line. Soon I was shown how they wanted to do customer returns and one of the common issues for the fixed sight Tommies was point of aim grouping. So the floor manager (Tom Casey) walked me back to the Numrich Arms shooting range with a "point of aim" issue gun, a big flat head screw driver and a few boxes of our reloads. Being freash out of Gunsmithing school, I couldn't figure out how in the hell was he going to fix a gun that's shooting 6-8" out at 50 yards with a freakin flat head screw driver. He wasn't about to tell me either.... it was all about "show you" how to do it.
So with a target up at 50 and shooting off the table, customer complaint was verified. Then Tom takes the big screw driver and removes the forend and butt stock. Walks over to a big cut pine tree log that's standing up on end and holding the big long end of the receiver in both hands like a base ball bat, looks it over a bit standing over the stump and suddenly swings the tommy barreled receiver up over his head and brings the barrel down hard onto the edge of the pine stump. He turns to me and says don't worry about the wood if it gets stuck in the barrel fins.... you clean that out latter. :o WTF :o . Well it took a few whacks of the stump to point the muzzle into the sight point of aim but that's the way they were doing it. The wood had to be removed to keep from spliting the butt stock at the 2 attaching screws. This all came as a shock to me because of how in school it was all about how EVERYTHING had to be done with the most precision humanly possible. Live & Learn :)
That's a neat story xtriggerman! An Officer I worked with years ago picked up a S&W Model 10 dirt cheap, after shooting it Jesse decided he could shoot around corners with it. We went in to see the Dept Armorer (Larry) and he told Jesse that the pistol could be fixed easily and quickly. Larry turned to his work bench, picked up a hammer (non-metal) and struck the barrel about twice. Looking at Jesse I thought he was going to have a stroke! :o After firing the pistol 3 or 4 times Larry went back to the table and repeated the procedure. Jesse never was quite the same after that but that old .38 Special shot as well as the day it as made!
Greatguns I'm glad this project is turning out in your favor, sometimes gun repair is merely a simple procedure like the use of a hammer or a press!
Quote from: xtriggerman on February 13, 2015, 03:22:09 PM
Nice work on barrel bending GG. Its really just a lot of common sense & understanding basic soft metal properties & you'v got that nailed! I like using soft pine also on mid point pressure since it gives to conform to the barrel OD some what. I actually love the challenge of bending barrels back straight! I had a trap shooter once have me bend his Rem 1100 barrel to a different point of aim several different times before he finally realized he was just a lousy shot with that gun!
My introduction to barrel bending started in 1981. I started working for Auto Ordnance of West Hurley that spring and was put on the Thompson semi and SMG assembly line. Soon I was shown how they wanted to do customer returns and one of the common issues for the fixed sight Tommies was point of aim grouping. So the floor manager (Tom Casey) walked me back to the Numrich Arms shooting range with a "point of aim" issue gun, a big flat head screw driver and a few boxes of our reloads. Being freash out of Gunsmithing school, I couldn't figure out how in the hell was he going to fix a gun that's shooting 6-8" out at 50 yards with a freakin flat head screw driver. He wasn't about to tell me either.... it was all about "show you" how to do it.
So with a target up at 50 and shooting off the table, customer complaint was verified. Then Tom takes the big screw driver and removes the forend and butt stock. Walks over to a big cut pine tree log that's standing up on end and holding the big long end of the receiver in both hands like a base ball bat, looks it over a bit standing over the stump and suddenly swings the tommy barreled receiver up over his head and brings the barrel down hard onto the edge of the pine stump. He turns to me and says don't worry about the wood if it gets stuck in the barrel fins.... you clean that out latter. :o WTF :o . Well it took a few whacks of the stump to point the muzzle into the sight point of aim but that's the way they were doing it. The wood had to be removed to keep from spliting the butt stock at the 2 attaching screws. This all came as a shock to me because of how in school it was all about how EVERYTHING had to be done with the most precision humanly possible. Live & Learn :)
Hahahaha, I love it XT. You make my method sound hi-tech. And here I was worried when I started this thread of getting re-buffed. rofl rofl rofl rofl
Quote from: Dannyboy53 on February 13, 2015, 04:45:20 PM
That's a neat story xtriggerman! An Officer I worked with years ago picked up a S&W Model 10 dirt cheap, after shooting it Jesse decided he could shoot around corners with it. We went in to see the Dept Armorer (Larry) and he told Jesse that the pistol could be fixed easily and quickly. Larry turned to his work bench, picked up a hammer (non-metal) and struck the barrel about twice. Looking at Jesse I thought he was going to have a stroke! :o After firing the pistol 3 or 4 times Larry went back to the table and repeated the procedure. Jesse never was quite the same after that but that old .38 Special shot as well as the day it as made!
Greatguns I'm glad this project is turning out in your favor, sometimes gun repair is merely a simple procedure like the use of a hammer or a press!
Yeah 53, Iv heard about the revolver barrel beatings but never did one myself. Its hard to get my head around the fact that the "soft" fat barrel will bend before the skinny top strap and crane cut will and even the barrel shank that screws into the frame makes the barrel there at the shoulder skinny as hell! It just defies imagination that a lead hammer over a lead block is not going to do damage to those skinny ass parts :-X I guess that's what heat treat for strength is all about.
Hey GG, I didn't know you were a front end guy and probably a better one than the "best frame/front end specialists" in southern NY!!
I gotta tell you how I got screwed over once. about 14 years ago I had a 97 Chevy Tahoe 2 door 6.5 Diesel that I had to put in a ditch culvert pipe or else slide out past a stop sign into traffic. So the drivers wheel A frame bent back and up into the wheel well. Nearly 5K in damage. The Frame shop straightened everything and replaced all but the sway bar. The truck handled like crap but only on right hand turns. The idiots jacked the new torsion bar adjustment all around until it was a better right hand turner but now worse when turning left...... I complained again to my body shop guy and told him I thought the sway bar might be twisted. He said the frame shop said that cant be because they are too tuff to twist. I forced the body shop to unhook both ends and measure their drop and lo and behold a freaking 4 inch difference! Big pissin match over who would replace it since the insurance $$$ was long gone by then. I sold the truck. Didn't really want to but I had had it with incompetence at that point. Cant believe Im still ticked off over that! I wish I had taken it to you.... I'd still have that ol oil burner.... :(
Quote from: xtriggerman on February 13, 2015, 05:35:01 PM
Quote from: Dannyboy53 on February 13, 2015, 04:45:20 PM
That's a neat story xtriggerman! An Officer I worked with years ago picked up a S&W Model 10 dirt cheap, after shooting it Jesse decided he could shoot around corners with it. We went in to see the Dept Armorer (Larry) and he told Jesse that the pistol could be fixed easily and quickly. Larry turned to his work bench, picked up a hammer (non-metal) and struck the barrel about twice. Looking at Jesse I thought he was going to have a stroke! :o After firing the pistol 3 or 4 times Larry went back to the table and repeated the procedure. Jesse never was quite the same after that but that old .38 Special shot as well as the day it as made!
Greatguns I'm glad this project is turning out in your favor, sometimes gun repair is merely a simple procedure like the use of a hammer or a press!
Yeah 53, Iv heard about the revolver barrel beatings but never did one myself. Its hard to get my head around the fact that the "soft" fat barrel will bend before the skinny top strap and crane cut will and even the barrel shank that screws into the frame makes the barrel there at the shoulder skinny as hell! It just defies imagination that a lead hammer over a lead block is not going to do damage to those skinny ass parts :-X I guess that's what heat treat for strength is all about.
Hey GG, I didn't know you were a front end guy and probably a better one than the "best frame/front end specialists" in southern NY!!
I gotta tell you how I got screwed over once. about 14 years ago I had a 97 Chevy Tahoe 2 door 6.5 Diesel that I had to put in a ditch culvert pipe or else slide out past a stop sign into traffic. So the drivers wheel A frame bent back and up into the wheel well. Nearly 5K in damage. The Frame shop straightened everything and replaced all but the sway bar. The truck handled like crap but only on right hand turns. The idiots jacked the new torsion bar adjustment all around until it was a better right hand turner but now worse when turning left...... I complained again to my body shop guy and told him I thought the sway bar might be twisted. He said the frame shop said that cant be because they are too tuff to twist. I forced the body shop to unhook both ends and measure their drop and lo and behold a freaking 4 inch difference! Big pissin match over who would replace it since the insurance $$$ was long gone by then. I sold the truck. Didn't really want to but I had had it with incompetence at that point. Cant believe Im still ticked off over that! I wish I had taken it to you.... I'd still have that ol oil burner.... :(
Bad thing is, the shop probably billed for the part then didn't put it on and pocketed the money. All too common.
One thing I learned quick with cars, working on front ends and such. Metal, regardless of strength and hardness, with 2 fixed connection points will either bend twist or break upon impact. PERIOD
Not to hijack, but if you still have the sight and bayonet I would be interested. I am gathering parts for a restoration now.
Quote from: jeepguy on March 09, 2015, 05:58:59 PM
Not to hijack, but if you still have the sight and bayonet I would be interested. I am gathering parts for a restoration now.
Sorry JG, everything I took off has long since been sold.
It was worth a try, carry on.
Latched onto a 5 digit Chinese rifle in a trade yesterday and it was housed in an M59/66 beech wood stock that was pretty clean, soooooo......
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn121/salanw/IMAG0069_zps90xvmwmp.jpg) (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/salanw/media/IMAG0069_zps90xvmwmp.jpg.html)
Thinking I may refinish it in a dark Kona stain with 5-6 layers of satin tung oil. Thoughts?
Oh, BTW, the Tapco HG is probably going away. I couldn't find an OEM gas tube so ended up buying the Tapco along with a piston from Copperhead29 off Ebay. May end up with a UTG quad-rail, but not sure I want it that heavy. That would give it the SOCOM look though, lol.
Kewl.... do it! I like dark stocks.
Well, I ended up not getting the P50 front sight, but instead got a used Magwedge rail and a scope from Tornfeather on the SKSboards. Opted to go a different route on the stock(for now) and finally got to the range to test it out.
Here are a couple of pics. One of the rifle in its current configuration and one of the last sight in grouping. I only went to 25 yds because it wasn't cycling, but was still quite happy with the 1 1/8" 5 shot group. That was using Tula FMJ. Got the cycling figured out now and am anxiously awaiting a new gas valve from Murrays. Will take it out again after that arrives so I can check both the cycling and shoot it out to 50 then 100 yds to see if it is walking to the right or not. If it maintains good groups but walks right then I have to tweak the barrel a little bit more. If POI stays with my current POA then I am finished with it.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8812/17382340961_a0f77bf2bf_o.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7712/17380540072_1e2a66035c_o.jpg)