Thought i would get this started so maybe people can shed some light on this gun (you guys have a sharper eye for details than i do)
Bought from PSA as one of their Grade 2 for 299 specials
Factory 26, 10 million (1965?)
Import serial in the 18k range
Number matching gun + Stock
Bluing on receiver cover is 2/10 but rest of gun looks fine (not an issue)
stock has some dings as normal but no chunks missing
Pictures
(https://i.ibb.co/jHG14KG/MVIMG-20200720-102917.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1bKw2VK)
(https://i.ibb.co/x60qsWt/MVIMG-20200720-102926.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M74khrx)
Overall shot
(https://i.ibb.co/4WcGShd/size.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PxRnWqQ)
That looks like a pretty nice example. Post some pics with the cosmo cleaned off when you can. Looks good so far though.
For being a grade 2, that is pert dern nice!
I think I like the eyes at PSA better than the myopia at Classic.
Looks like a winner to me thumb1
After you bleed the Albanian ersatz Cosmoline out of the stock with mild heat it should be a good looking well-used Type 56.
Ive had luck with easy off oven cleaner and then a nice coating of 100% tung oil to bring back the finish. I tried leaving it out in the Georgia sun 90+ degrees but not much luck on getting it to weep out of the stock.
The firing pin needed to be punched out. soaking in mineral spirits and an ultrasonic bath did very little to free it up
You generally should remove the firing pin and clean the bolt well. I tried twice recently to see if soaking was enough....sure enough upon taking it out as I planned to do anyway, there was a lot of crud/cosmoline in there. There was a little movement, enough that most folks would consider it OK, it did rattle....but there was more than enough crap in there to cause a problem down the road.
I seriously doubt they were ever fully cleaned before being doused in cosmoline for storage.
try a heat-gun on everything after the mineral spirits.
Quote from: carls sks on July 20, 2020, 06:52:15 PM
try a heat-gun on everything after the mineral spirits.
^ this!
Potassium hydroxide (Easy-Off) is very harsh on wood and will strip off everything on the surface (as well as some of the hemicellulose in the wood).
I think you may well find a pretty nice specimen under all that cosmo and dirt.
As others have already stated, you did a lot better than what folks are getting from Classic these days.
Started on this project, we have company coming this weekend and a surpise engagement party to go to. So that gets in the way of finishing this up soon but the stock looks to be in great shape and right now soaking parts to make a better evaluation. No rust on this rifle that i can tell.
My aluminum container sprung a leak so ill have to deal with the ziplock bags, those wont last long in my experience.
(https://i.ibb.co/xL3gM5d/MVIMG-20200722-122113.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JtCpzkg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q8FbsPF/MVIMG-20200722-122116.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mvCDQ9C)
Looking good....you did better than me as a whole...
Mine can't even be considered "fully functional" as PSA described them....and "no broken stocks"....but I might have replaced my stock anyway....depending on how beat up it was....overall, the metal on mine I'm happy with.....however, ..yeah, I get to tear into my trigger group and hopefully have just a safety spring to replace...might as well learn right off the bat, lol......
In PSA's defense for me, mine's Cosmo was so thick, it was protected well, and hard to tell how bad/good it was.....their reviews seem pretty good overall..
Yeah it looked like the cosmoline applyer used the cosmoline to keep the stock together and to be fair they knew they would be long gone when it was uncovered.
Numrich has stocks for about 35 shipped i would go that route if you like the wood stocks. But otherwise your build looks good. (minus the safety )
i have a feeling the stock will turn out beautiful and with lots of character. Picture showing after cleaning and light sanding ive applied some 100% Tung Oil and will let that soak until tomorrow. Initial cleaning this gun has been dropped in the mud and there is some pitting on the receiver which i worked some xxx steel wool +oil on it to see what progress i could make.
(https://i.ibb.co/MDfxwV8/MVIMG-20200722-194915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y7XFnkD)
(https://i.ibb.co/LY6RnjJ/MVIMG-20200722-185950.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9c2gsKV)
Looks like it will be a good one when all cleaned up. I only use a heat gun when I remove cosmoline. I hang both the receiver and the stock and keep the heat gun moving. As cosmoline softens or melts I wipe it away and repeat. As others have said, I'd be careful with easy-off on a matching stock. Personally I wouldn't use easy-off at all.
Thanks Bob, I did skip the easy off and just used mineral sprits and hot soapy water. then the heat gun when finished
What would you all suggest for the pitting on the receiver?
I have a few options, right now its soaking in wd40
-Clean it and apply a cold bluing solution
- try to sand the side smooth to eliminate some of the pitting and then apply cold blue
- Expensive dura-fil then a dura-blue that would cost around 100 dollars in material for the areosol cans since i dont have any spray guns or air brushes
Open to suggestions on how to handle it.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 07:43:30 AM
What would you all suggest for the pitting on the receiver?
I have a few options, right now its soaking in wd40
-Clean it and apply a cold bluing solution
- try to sand the side smooth to eliminate some of the pitting and then apply cold blue
- Expensive dura-fil then a dura-blue that would cost around 100 dollars in material for the areosol cans since i dont have any spray guns or air brushes
Open to suggestions on how to handle it.
Remove active rust using the oil/solvent soak you’re currently doing and a brass brush and/or bronze wool. Clean off with a good WD-40 or RemOil spray-down then oil the metal and call it good. Sandpaper and cold blue shouldn’t even be in the same room with a milsurp thumb1 :)
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on July 23, 2020, 08:06:57 AM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 07:43:30 AM
What would you all suggest for the pitting on the receiver?
I have a few options, right now its soaking in wd40
-Clean it and apply a cold bluing solution
- try to sand the side smooth to eliminate some of the pitting and then apply cold blue
- Expensive dura-fil then a dura-blue that would cost around 100 dollars in material for the areosol cans since i dont have any spray guns or air brushes
Open to suggestions on how to handle it.
Remove active rust using the oil/solvent soak you’re currently doing and a brass brush and/or bronze wool. Clean off with a good WD-40 or RemOil spray-down then oil the metal and call it good. Sandpaper and cold blue shouldn’t even be in the same room with a milsurp thumb1 :)
Good advice but do you not think the cold blue + oil will provide better future protection?
At the end of the day, it's your rifle to do with as you will.
As for me, I'll touch up bluing to cover wear or a scratch sometimes. But for pitting, I think it turns out looking pretty cheesy.
You might want to try to find some images online to see if you're gonna get the result to really want.
I think a lot of milsurp guys consider pitting just part of the life of the gun and, while we may not highlight or brag about it, we generally don't cover it up either.
Keep up on your regular maintenance and it'll be just fine.
good point, ill just keep it oiled and not bother with the bluing.
Have you looked into "DuraFil"
https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durafil-surface-filler?variant=39814476937
And there is DuraBlue:
https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue?variant=33527890121
I'm currently looking into those myself for a somewhat heavily pitted Sporter 1992 (AK-magazine) but I understand the difference with yours and my commercial Sporter on why you want to keep it original.
Quote from: owenj492 on July 23, 2020, 01:30:56 PM
Have you looked into "DuraFil"
https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durafil-surface-filler?variant=39814476937
And there is DuraBlue:
https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue?variant=33527890121
I'm currently looking into those myself for a somewhat heavily pitted Sporter 1992 (AK-magazine) but I understand the difference with yours and my commercial Sporter on why you want to keep it original.
That is one of the reasons i didnt buy a numbers matching SKS i know they are good guns but i dont really value them as collect items. I just like to improve things and surplus rifles are a great deal for a piece of history and the wood stocks can be very nice.
i did look at dura fil and Blue (i think i mentioned it in my post above) I dont have an air brush so i would need to purchase the aerosol cans and that would be a 100 dollar venture
I admit to being a proud card carrying purist :)) so you know my biases up front. To me, the cold blue is immediately recognizable and generally unsightly. Occasionally, you get someone who is quite skilled in utilizing the cold chemical bluing process and they achieve a near matching color on a smooth area of metal, but far more often it's bluer than the black hot dip bluing or deep blue/black rust bluing originally used on military firearms that have blued steel, like the SKS. Cold bluing really looks poor on pitted areas where it's obviously not original. I think a thin layer of oil or grease (under the wood for grease) is a better option.
If you're primarily a shooter, it's your only SKS for use, and/or you plan for its role to be a working gun that will get beat up anyhow and used in damp to wet environments, then I understand the need for additional protection. I wouldn't write my kids out of my will for using cold blue or a non-original finish/coating...well, maybe if they did it to a Karabiner-S rofl
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on July 23, 2020, 02:06:29 PM
I admit to being a proud card carrying purist :)) so you know my biases up front. To me, the cold blue is immediately recognizable and generally unsightly. Occasionally, you get someone who is quite skilled in utilizing the cold chemical bluing process and they achieve a near matching color on a smooth area of metal, but far more often it's bluer than the black hot dip bluing or deep blue/black rust bluing originally used on military firearms that have blued steel, like the SKS. Cold bluing really looks poor on pitted areas where it's obviously not original. I think a thin layer of oil or grease (under the wood for grease) is a better option.
If you're primarily a shooter, it's your only SKS for use, and/or you plan for its role to be a working gun that will get beat up anyhow and used in damp to wet environments, then I understand the need for additional protection. I wouldn't write my kids out of my will for using cold blue or a non-original finish/coating...well, maybe if they did it to a Karabiner-S rofl
I do side with the purist so i defiantly see things from your perspective. I have a problem with seeing issues/flaws and wanting to fix them. Its mostly an attempt to control and improve what is around me. I do take on projects for the ability to learn and hone various skills that ive aquired from a few other gun smithing projects.
maybe try a metal cleaner (on pitting and rust) called BIG 45 FRONTIER with WD40. even OOOO steel wool .
got the parts accessed and the magwell is the worst rusted part with about 20% of it having pitting mostly around the edges. so i think im going to try to put to together like it is and see how it runs. Its all numbers matching.
The bore is shiny and consistent minus what looks like a mis cut rifling about 5" from the muzzle. Wonder what that will do for accuracy?
so not as great as i had hoped but not terrible for the price Grade 2 was accurate and its what i paid for.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 08:09:01 PM
got the parts accessed and the magwell is the worst rusted part with about 20% of it having pitting mostly around the edges. so i think im going to try to put to together like it is and see how it runs. Its all numbers matching.
The bore is shiny and consistent minus what looks like a mis cut rifling about 5" from the muzzle. Wonder what that will do for accuracy?
so not as great as i had hoped but not terrible for the price Grade 2 was accurate and its what i paid for.
Are you sure that isn't the gas port?
Quote from: Justin Hell on July 23, 2020, 08:20:07 PM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 08:09:01 PM
got the parts accessed and the magwell is the worst rusted part with about 20% of it having pitting mostly around the edges. so i think im going to try to put to together like it is and see how it runs. Its all numbers matching.
The bore is shiny and consistent minus what looks like a mis cut rifling about 5" from the muzzle. Wonder what that will do for accuracy?
so not as great as i had hoped but not terrible for the price Grade 2 was accurate and its what i paid for.
Are you sure that isn't the gas port?
I didnt think of that. im so used to bolt guns. That is about the right spot and it was on the top of the bore.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 08:21:34 PM
Quote from: Justin Hell on July 23, 2020, 08:20:07 PM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 08:09:01 PM
got the parts accessed and the magwell is the worst rusted part with about 20% of it having pitting mostly around the edges. so i think im going to try to put to together like it is and see how it runs. Its all numbers matching.
The bore is shiny and consistent minus what looks like a mis cut rifling about 5" from the muzzle. Wonder what that will do for accuracy?
so not as great as i had hoped but not terrible for the price Grade 2 was accurate and its what i paid for.
Are you sure that isn't the gas port?
I didnt think of that. im so used to bolt guns. That is about the right spot and it was on the top of the bore.
rofl
The first time I used a bore light I totally about crapped myself! Then, I had a V8 moment. :)
This is why we're all here.
We all learn something new all the time.
Let me admit,
Before the facepalm happened, I did have the brush and Hoppe's out, and was about to determine where to scrub....then, it hit me. :-[
so a brass brush on a dremel makes quick work of the rusted areas. Very quick work. i think ill need to reblue the magazine
Quote from: auskip07 on July 23, 2020, 09:55:04 PM
so a brass brush on a dremel makes quick work of the rusted areas. Very quick work. i think ill need to reblue the magazine
Can you post pictures of your work and tools? thankyou1
Quote from: carls sks on July 23, 2020, 06:51:40 PM
maybe try a metal cleaner (on pitting and rust) called BIG 45 FRONTIER with WD40. even OOOO steel wool .
^This. I cannot say enough good things about this, although I try to avoid using steel wool, unless I plan on rebluing.
Quote from: owenj492 on July 24, 2020, 11:09:40 AM
Can you post pictures of your work and tools? thankyou1
Its it need of a good cleaning, I make the most of the tools
the bolt handle cleaned up nicely with a abrasive brush, and here are pictures of the receiver cover and magazine. The trigger housing had a little bit of rust and some pitting but it wasnt as bad.
(https://i.ibb.co/khNxWPv/MVIMG-20200724-145536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCV82sH)
(https://i.ibb.co/YjqYGkY/MVIMG-20200724-145546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NYHQzjQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/B3TQbV0/MVIMG-20200724-145609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wgpPVN5)
(https://i.ibb.co/xs4tZNc/MVIMG-20200724-145600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yR3c2rM)
(https://i.ibb.co/7RnTRK6/MVIMG-20200724-145554.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tb4nbtF)
That's right up there with mine, lol.
Quote from: Greatguns on July 24, 2020, 03:07:57 PM
That's right up there with mine, lol.
I just always need more space lol. But seriously i have multiple projects going on at once and i try to shuffle them around the work space. I think ill take a break after this sks and clean up and orgainize... (maybe)
Quote from: auskip07 on July 24, 2020, 03:05:10 PM
Quote from: owenj492 on July 24, 2020, 11:09:40 AM
Can you post pictures of your work and tools? thankyou1
Its it need of a good cleaning, I make the most of the tools
the bolt handle cleaned up nicely with a abrasive brush, and here are pictures of the receiver cover and magazine. The trigger housing had a little bit of rust and some pitting but it wasnt as bad.
(https://i.ibb.co/khNxWPv/MVIMG-20200724-145536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCV82sH)
(https://i.ibb.co/YjqYGkY/MVIMG-20200724-145546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NYHQzjQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/B3TQbV0/MVIMG-20200724-145609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wgpPVN5)
(https://i.ibb.co/xs4tZNc/MVIMG-20200724-145600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yR3c2rM)
(https://i.ibb.co/7RnTRK6/MVIMG-20200724-145554.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tb4nbtF)
Thank you for these, I'm going to post and upload my 1992 Sporter here in a few and would like your opinion.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 24, 2020, 03:05:10 PM
(https://i.ibb.co/khNxWPv/MVIMG-20200724-145536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCV82sH)
Good Lord Son, clean up that work bench, my OCD is kickin in. rofl rofl chuckles1 chuckles1
Quote from: Greatguns on July 24, 2020, 04:23:08 PM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 24, 2020, 03:05:10 PM
(https://i.ibb.co/khNxWPv/MVIMG-20200724-145536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCV82sH)
Good Lord Son, clean up that work bench, my OCD is kickin in. rofl rofl chuckles1 chuckles1
my father is very OCD his father was very much like me. We all were blessed with the ability to create and fix things with our hands
Stock update, I didnt like how dark it was after applying the first coat of tung so i took it back to to the cleaning table and got more grime off of it and sanded it a little to get the grain to show.
(https://i.ibb.co/K5q95P2/MVIMG-20200724-192940.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gd2Vd6W)
(https://i.ibb.co/n6gLvyp/MVIMG-20200724-193036.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vVwjGW9)
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
I look forward to it!
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
its tempting to get one from them. looking forward to seeing what you get, good luck.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
Can't really go wrong getting another one - Unless you pay the current GunJoker prices.
Quote from: Larry D. on July 26, 2020, 05:14:16 PM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
Can't really go wrong getting another one - Unless you pay the current GunJoker prices.
Unfortunately they dont seem to ever get cheaper. and GunJoker prices are way higher than i would like to pay..... plus there is the rush of not knowing what you will get.
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
What other Greatguns do you have besides me???? rofl rofl chuckles1 chuckles1 dance2 dance2
Quote from: Greatguns on July 26, 2020, 05:31:50 PM
Quote from: auskip07 on July 26, 2020, 01:28:28 PM
I may be stupid because i have 2 great guns but i just placed an order for a 3rd SKS from PSA (non grade 2) Still working on this one but thought i would let you guys know.
What other Greatguns do you have besides me???? rofl rofl chuckles1 chuckles1 dance2 dance2
LOL! well my father in law was a re finisher for redstone arsenal in Huntsville AL during the time that all the M1 Garands were being sold for $100 a piece. he has since passed but he did gift me a few guns before. One being a WW2 production M1. I think thats my greatest gun.
This stock is giving me alot of trouble. i should have it done by now but ive cleaned it 3 times to get the cosmo off. it just wont absorb any of the tung oil that im putting on it. i reverted to the easy off to get the remining cosmoline off and there is more too it than that. Now ive resorted to sanding off the surface (who cares if its a number matching stock ill just carve the numbers back) My give a **** meter for this stock is pegged.
Close to the finish line, These parts had close to no bluing on them and some rust so i cleaned them up and applied 4 coats of super blue . I think they turned out alright. Before pictures of the receiver are in previous post
(https://i.ibb.co/HDth3N2/IMG-20200730-064607.jpg) (https://ibb.co/99bZSwv)
Before and after. I do think its an improvement to the receiver side that had the most rust and pitting. both pictures taken with the same light and surfaces dry
(https://i.ibb.co/fv6NGzR/MVIMG-20200730-183902.jpg) (https://ibb.co/74MpNdc)
(https://i.ibb.co/9GN99bf/MVIMG-20200730-185510.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pnxvvfs)
Quote from: auskip07 on July 30, 2020, 08:10:31 PM
Before and after. I do think its an improvement to the receiver side that had the most rust and pitting. both pictures taken with the same light and surfaces dry
(https://i.ibb.co/fv6NGzR/MVIMG-20200730-183902.jpg) (https://ibb.co/74MpNdc)
(https://i.ibb.co/9GN99bf/MVIMG-20200730-185510.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pnxvvfs)
Did you use that brass brush and oil?
i did, brass brush and oil loosened up the rust in the pitting.
That is something I have not tried on my 1992 Sporter, first was Big Frontier 45 metal cleaner with oil, and then 320 grit sandpaper with oil, I'll have to purchase brass brushes for my resto-project.
Quote from: owenj492 on July 30, 2020, 08:47:53 PM
That is something I have not tried on my 1992 Sporter, first was Big Frontier 45 metal cleaner with oil, and then 320 grit sandpaper with oil, I'll have to purchase brass brushes for my resto-project.
Do you have pictures of the progress in your thread? I would like to see how that turns out. I know it was in rough shape
None since I last posted those pictures, hopefully I can do some work today and this weekend.
Just an aside; when you use oven cleaner, you have to have a good bathtub or sink also to scrub and rinse the wood. Also, use protective gloves. Spray the cleaner on, use a soft bristle scrub brush on the stock to remove the old finish and the cosmoline, then thoroughly rinse the stock off until all of the oven cleaner is gone. Make sure you have removed ALL metal parts before you apply oven cleaner. Once done and dried, use "0" or "00" steel wool to take the raised grain down. If you want, you can apply a stain to bring back the original color and then oil and seal the wood. I use boiled linseed, while others prefer tung oil.
Quote from: Bacarnal on August 01, 2020, 12:32:04 AM
Just an aside; when you use oven cleaner, you have to have a good bathtub or sink also to scrub and rinse the wood. Also, use protective gloves. Spray the cleaner on, use a soft bristle scrub brush on the stock to remove the old finish and the cosmoline, then thoroughly rinse the stock off until all of the oven cleaner is gone. Make sure you have removed ALL metal parts before you apply oven cleaner. Once done and dried, use "0" or "00" steel wool to take the raised grain down. If you want, you can apply a stain to bring back the original color and then oil and seal the wood. I use boiled linseed, while others prefer tung oil.
Ive done a few of these and this stock is different i did 3 stages of cleaning that didnt get all the gunk out of the stock (i think it was something else besides cosmoline) i resorted to having to sand a few parts to get rid of the oily finish. this stock isnt accepting the tung oil like the rest i have refurbished.
assembled it looks really good. The quality of stock work was above and beyond the albanian restock with the exampled i have at hand. but i do prefer the beech wood to this. The metal looks good since most of the pitting is hidden and the rebluing matches with the few touchups but when you go forward on the gun the original bluing isnt as strong. (maybe a project for another time)
(https://i.ibb.co/9trsmj0/MVIMG-20200801-120200.jpg) (https://ibb.co/16m8YxN)
(https://i.ibb.co/mhjSmTL/MVIMG-20200801-120152.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frgQbFh)
(https://i.ibb.co/W2Fgj28/MVIMG-20200801-120146.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8726t7v)
(https://i.ibb.co/0q4vMxR/MVIMG-20200801-120138.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zd4780p)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZB63tnN/MVIMG-20200801-120132.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F5b9NSn)
Awesome pictures, has that real "been there, done that" look! thumb1
Still looks a little bare without the cleaning rod. http://stores.polytechparts.com/sks-cleaning-rod-17-25-long-chinese-polytech-type-56-rifle/
Ebay has them too, of course.
Whoops the cleaning rod is sitting on the work bench
Thanks guys, next one should be here next week for part 3 maybe this one will be a nicer one
My PSA grade 2 project is under way too. Kind of thought I would have a project when I ordered it. First thing I did was send the complete bolt and trigger to Murray's. The stock has a large crack next to the left top of the receiver held together by small nails...yep, scratched the receiver. Stock was dug out to accept the black spike bayonet (grade 2 spiker). Small area of pitting on the receiver. All things considered, I am ok with the project. It is an as is, not an as was.
If you have any photos of the nail repair, I'd love to see them. I like to see what the Albanians did to keep these rifles in service. thumb1
Quote from: retpsp on August 13, 2020, 10:35:54 AM
My PSA grade 2 project is under way too. Kind of thought I would have a project when I ordered it. First thing I did was send the complete bolt and trigger to Murray's. The stock has a large crack next to the left top of the receiver held together by small nails...yep, scratched the receiver. Stock was dug out to accept the black spike bayonet (grade 2 spiker). Small area of pitting on the receiver. All things considered, I am ok with the project. It is an as is, not an as was.
That black spike bayonet is likely from an Albanian SKS but we’ll need to see it to say with certainty. Worth more than a Chinese spike that can be found for about $20+/-5
I'll work on some photos. The spike is in good shape. The stock has no markings, bottom sling swivel and the but is quite thick. (The last two forums I was a member on/of have gone...) Serial #239XXX.
love to see some pictures!
Quote from: Phosphorus32 on August 13, 2020, 10:49:22 AM
Quote from: retpsp on August 13, 2020, 10:35:54 AM
My PSA grade 2 project is under way too. Kind of thought I would have a project when I ordered it. First thing I did was send the complete bolt and trigger to Murray's. The stock has a large crack next to the left top of the receiver held together by small nails...yep, scratched the receiver. Stock was dug out to accept the black spike bayonet (grade 2 spiker). Small area of pitting on the receiver. All things considered, I am ok with the project. It is an as is, not an as was.
That black spike bayonet is likely from an Albanian SKS but we’ll need to see it to say with certainty. Worth more than a Chinese spike that can be found for about $20+/-5
I've been seeing a few chinese sks's coming up with Albanian bayonets lately, seems like the PSA shipment had more of them than classic, but I don't have definitive numbers of course.
The ones I've seen with the alby bayos all had albanian replacement stocks on them (which is why I turned the offer down, if y'all remember my last sks with one of those stocks...) might have a picture somewhere if I look.