Safety broken

[Bob_The_Student]

I didn't see another topic on broken SKS safety so if I missed it just post link.

I have a trigger group and the safety needs some Viagra (not affiliated or sponsored by  ). The safety is as limp as a wonton noodle (not affiliated or sponsored  ). Where do I start looking for what is broke, not engaged, missing, etc... This is on an extra trigger group I have I believe it's Chinese, as I type this, and I picked it up broke.

[Greatguns]

If the safety is in one piece then look at the flat spring that sits up inside the housing. I have seen them where they get bent straight and cause the lack of tension that you mention(I rhymed, LOL) Sometimes you can take them out and put the curve back into it, but sometimes it's better to get a replacement spring.

[running-man]

Is the safety lever itself broken or did the spring inside break?  Broken spring definitely will give you a 'floppy' lever that goes wherever gravity takes it.

Springs are still available:
https://murraysguns.com/product/sks-safety-spring/
https://esellersusa.com/product/sks-safety-spring-factory-new-oem-part-made-by-norinco/
https://www.kbtacticalstar.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=493

Trigger levers are not as easy to find but I did find these:
https://www.apexgunparts.com/sks-safety-lever.html

[Greatguns]

If you do need a new safety lever Bob, here's one on GB; https://www.gunbroker.com/item/921916259

[firstchoice]

The KB International offering wasn't too bad at $6.99 ea. plus $8.50 shipping. (shipping not that good, but whatever.)   I went ahead and ordered two to ease the shipping cost pain a bit. I don't need one yet but I've seen several floppy/loose levers on other owners' SKS'. You never know...I'd rather have one and not need it...

firstchoice

[Bob_The_Student]

Weird, I just got notified of all your replies. I have to dig the TG out and I will take a look at it and see what it the parts look like. I'll advise or post photos.

[Bob_The_Student]

OK, so I messed with said trigger and bought a safety latch spring which seemed to work for the latch being floppy. Put it all back together with a few censored moments trying to get the hammer strut and spring back on and then after multiple attempts bam I got it on. I go to function check and nothing. The trigger bar was under the sear not engaging the sear. Since the sear was not moving forward I had a cocked hammer that I could not remove now until I messed with the side peek-a-boo (that's a technical term) port and moved sear forward to de-cock the hammer.

My question is when reassembling where exactly should the trigger bar be situated/ positioned so that it engages each time it is cocked? I have photos and I am slow playing this trying to distract GG from finding stuff for us to buy. 

[Greatguns]

Looks like I'm competing with RM on the 'no respect' category here, LOL.

As for the FCG, this is why we take pictures of the assembly before taking it apart...so we remember how it goes back together.
Sounds like your next enabled purchase is going to be a trigger job from Kivaari, should I get you the link?

[Greatguns]

On a more serious note, see if this helps . It is supposedly tied to a full auto conversion, but this may be the before cutaway.

[Bob_The_Student]

Looks like I'm competing with RM on the 'no respect' category here, LOL.

As for the FCG, this is why we take pictures of the assembly before taking it apart...so we remember how it goes back together.
Sounds like your next enabled purchase is going to be a trigger job from Kivaari, should I get you the link?

I laughed my arse off at this. So true. I'm a guy who don't read directions what can I say. Take a picture...pffft!   

[Bob_The_Student]

So that photo didn't help. It does not show where the trigger bar end is by the sear.

I got serious and pulled out my protractor and T-square and made a drawing.





I see the flared end pushes the sear, correct? But when I pull the trigger the trigger bar goes under the sear and doesn't appear to have a way to reset to engage the sear again. 

I have other thoughts of what's going on but I have to keep GG focused on this thread with cliffhanger's (don't tell him). 

[Greatguns]

Okay, when the bolt is in battery, it pushes down on the disconnector which allows the rebound disconnector to come up in the back and contact the hammer so that when the trigger is pulled, the front of the rebound disconnector is thus lowered allowing the trigger bar to engage the sear and move it forward. If you have the FCG off the action you can check that movement with it in your hand while using the fat of your palm to lightly depress the disconnector and your thumb to slightly depress and hold the hammer then pull the trigger enough to release the hammer.

I have seen in the past where someone accidentally installed the rebound disconnector after the trigger bar so thus causing the rebound disconnector not to function and the hammer would not release.

[Bob_The_Student]

I'll give you an "A" for effort GG. I appreciate the attempt but I feel like it's more my fault for not conveying what I'm trying to say properly.

BOTTOM LINE: I fixed it

Story:

If you put the trigger group together correctly that sh!# will work properly. So after beating on this TG poor little pins. 
So I watched the one video I could find on Commit-Tube and I swore he had the safety spring in the way I was attempting and did put in multiple way. Then the lightbulb flickered and I decided to look at one of the dozens of TG's I have. I finally figured out that the was upside down and not under the correct pin. So late at night I beat on that poor little TG again and finally got the parts in their intended order. Apparently, the engineering on this thing works as long as the parts are in the way they are supposed to be, who knew?! 
         

[running-man]

Hey at least you got it back together and working Bob!  You’ll never make that same mistake again I bet!   

[Bob_The_Student]

RM, I definitely won't make that mistake again. I thought it was an issue with the trigger bar and sear lining up. Basically because that safety spring was in incorrectly the trigger bar was out of whack/ alignment, if you will. Thing works great now and no floppy safety lever. 

[Greatguns]

Glad to see you got it figured out Bob