Author Topic: 90 degrees of Bubba  (Read 27930 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Power Surge

  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1405
  • Commercial dude
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2017, 11:30:52 PM »
Can you look into the brake with a light and tell if the barrel has been threaded? It's very possible that someone installed those set screws with green loctite which is super high strength sleeve retainer. You'll probably have to carefully heat it to get them out. And hopefully it wasn't also used on the threads if the barrel was threaded.

For the life of me, I can't find a Krink brake online with set screws like that....

Offline padams8888

  • SKS-FILES CONTRIBUTOR
  • Trade Count: (+5)
  • Marksman
  • *
  • Posts: 660
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2017, 04:28:47 PM »
Have you put heat to it yet? Use the shortest length Allen socket and some heat.....they should pop loose.

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #22 on: January 10, 2017, 01:20:10 AM »
Can you look into the brake with a light and tell if the barrel has been threaded? It's very possible that someone installed those set screws with green loctite which is super high strength sleeve retainer. You'll probably have to carefully heat it to get them out. And hopefully it wasn't also used on the threads if the barrel was threaded.

For the life of me, I can't find a Krink brake online with set screws like that....

When I look in there all I can see is that if it is threaded...it is all the way on...perfectly. I don't see much though...it looks like a very dirty crown butted up flush with the inside of the brake.  My vision and poor lighting make that impossible to confirm.  I haven't been able to find one anywhere like that either.

Have you put heat to it yet? Use the shortest length Allen socket and some heat.....they should pop loose.

I tried a hair dryer heating the whole thing up for about five minutes...no dice.
I tried a soldering iron on each individual head...no dice.

I twisted the allen wrench slightly even, before IT stripped. The head of the bolt is approximately the same wear wise, and likely will be the last to come out...now.

cry1

The trigger group and the magazine were sold two days earlier......

cry1 cry1 cry1 cry1

In the mail though, I picked up a decent laminate stock/handguard along with a period correct trigger group from our friends in Canada.
I also ordered an unissued period correct sight leaf direct from Mother Russia. So I have that going on for me.

The rebluing went well, the muzzle brake from hell at least matches quite nicely now...especially since it is looking more and more like a permanent resident.  The photos seem to reveal some splotching, while some of that might be very faint...most of it is differences in the metal that is left on the gun...causing the light to fluctuate. It does look much more even in person. Despite that...I probably will hit it again after this cures a bit longer...  It looked really strange after the first and second coats of bluing....as if it were covered in graphite dust. Super shiny black...almost blinding. Fortunately the third reduced it enough to look normal. This was my first whole gun bluing experience...small parts are so much easier.

























Waiting on the mail and hanging out with some of her Chinese brethren...pay no attention to the /906\ below her....that one is going through a phase. She is trying to make nobody notice she has an ism. The audacity of going around...leaving her gas tube all uncovered...hoping you don't notice her dimple.



Offline Greasemonkey

  • Professional foul mouth. Banned for life!! Certified Enabler
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • The only way to avoid SKS #2, is avoid SKS #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2017, 02:31:33 AM »
Interesting job  thumb1 ... but the brake has driven me about retard... rofl

Things to try...now keep in mind "muzzle brake", corrosive ammo use was possible..

Quit dicking with toys and heat the bastard already, you got a gas stove, kerosene heater, gas water heater something with some real "heat".. when you heat it, spit on it, when it goes from just running off to bubbling, jumping around and sizzling off quick, thats usually hot enough, you should still be well below killing metal temper temps, do not get all jiggy and go and change the color of any of the metal..  thumb1 no making it glow..

RM mentioned the dreaded red threadlock...if it was threadlocked....typically the highest temp it will handle is 450 F, it will soften at high temps, which is usually below temper destroying temps of most steels. Also, sometimes acetone or super glue solvent could weaken it if you keep it soaked in it.
 
For penetrating oil, try a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic trans fluid or acetone and diesel or kerosene..  heat, hit, soak with oil, cool, repeat.  Throw that can of WD-40 out your front door, use it for a target, spray it on wood to start your wood stove.. rofl2

For sanity sakes on loose or questionable allen head sockets, use the tightest fitting allen wrench, higher quality, the better, even if you gotta kind of beat it in, again it could be standard or metric, something one must know when declaring war on a bastard seized up hunka crap, and use something use like valve grinding compound, even a fine grease coating with some fine sand/ash/fine polishing powder to enhance the bite of the bit, if it won't move, see the penetrating oil line above..  :)

Now if you have rounded it, you may find another bit that will fit really tight, even a torx could still fit, just beat it in with a hammer which will shock it via hammer strike. or....

Well I'll stop now... the violence I was going to say.... is inappropriate.. remember I am a former truck mechanic, trucks and trailers require a certain level of violence at times, you have to coerce them in to your way of thinking rofl2 rofl2 chuckles1

Send it to me  :o  I will break that brake :) it's just old junky mild steel and it was installed, therefore..... it can be "un"installed.
« Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 02:37:22 AM by Greasemonkey »
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #24 on: January 10, 2017, 03:21:00 AM »
 rofl

I wasn't sure exactly how much was too much, but I think I have a better grasp on it....now. :)

It does seem to be in between sizes of wrenches...if there was something in between metric and standard, this would be it. I have several sets of allens, the oldest and cruddiest one, with the least grip, seems to be the best fit, otherwise I can only get close...but not quite right IMO.

I am actually starting to like the damn thing. I really want to shoot it with it on there just to see what effect it might have on holding the muzzle still...but single digit temps and the frozen cloud dust falling about makes a shooting trip both dangerous and actually like it might not be fun despite how much fun it should be. 

I have gotten myself involved in an auction for a straight eared collar, just to keep myself motivated now...I will be clearing off a spot next to the stove and will give it another try.  I generally break things when they won't do my bidding, but I am trying very hard to restrain myself with this...By this time tomorrow, at the very least I will have singed off all my knuckle hair.

I am already way ahead of schedule and budget on this thing, I planned on dragging it out over the winter, but it has kind of occupied nearly every waking moment. This was an unplanned project...I was told I had to put any SKS purchases on the back burner of the broken stove out in the yard after my Sporter purchase a couple (well, almost a couple) months back. This project though somehow has gotten wifey's attention, and she is quite fond of the gun...which is a little weird for her. This is a good thing though, as I was fine with stopping at ten, but now that there is the bonus baby, it just doesn't mentally work for me, so now what...a dozen, well in that case...a baker's dozen, that would be all fine and dandy, but that's 13...we can't have that now can we...and fourteen is just stupid, so the next logical stopping point is 15. Damnit, more than one crate's worth...less than two.  Maybe now is the time to just attempt at least one of each nationality available.

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #25 on: January 10, 2017, 03:52:59 AM »
....I actually came to this thread for a reason before getting all digresstipated.

Tonight I won another auction for what I thought might be a candidate for when/if the spike comes my way. It had crappy pictures, but appeared to have the original finish, which was quite light for a Russian, and instead of one reinforcing pin, there were two, an inch or so apart where there normally would have been one, right were a haphazardly cut spike cut might have ended...pics don't show it. I was laying low on this as it sat at 9.99 until this morning. I still sniped it for a song, but I didn't even want to contact the seller at risk of them posting better pics and running up the price.  The forend seemed a little bit more slender than normal for a Russian, but the pictures didn't really do anything but lend to that hope rather then help confirm it. It didn't seem to have quite the profile for a normal Russian stock, nor did it have the super slender look one sees on the half dozen or so of these you see decent pictures of on the web. It seems, almost in the middle of the two...maybe I am just seeing things.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152380817677?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If anything...a blade stock was on my want list for future projects, the two pin thing just seemed neat in and of itself...who knows, maybe its Cuban  chuckles1

This is the stock she most likely will be wearing in a week or so...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322382032968?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I probably overpaid, but it had the handguard, which appears to match nicely...the ones I have seen that don't look abhorrent to me. Hopefully they send a nice box along with it and all it's goodies...it will almost be like getting a new gun...just spaced out over several installments...from various nations. I tried my Spanish receiver cover mount, but the darn thing was too loose, unfiled. In order to add another nation to this thing...I might just have to put an Albanian spike on to pretend to be the real deal for awhile.

Offline Greasemonkey

  • Professional foul mouth. Banned for life!! Certified Enabler
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • The only way to avoid SKS #2, is avoid SKS #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #26 on: January 10, 2017, 02:00:18 PM »
Also in desperate times.. cut the allen wrench off square to expose a new grip with unrounded edges..   thumb1
Both Snap-On and Mac hate this...but you do what you gotta do  >:(

As for a between size...some metric sizes throw in a fricken half.. you can have a 4.5 and 5.5mm, standard sizes like to throw in a 1/32 or worse a 1/64 in.. why not a 1/128 or a 1/256 guys, I mean spice it up some.. And I have never figured it out.. why is there a T27 Torx size, from T10 to T60, its the weird one....

The smaller sizes is where the half a mm and the 1/32-1/64 sizes come in.   

If your really brave, spit it, with a cutoff wheel, cut through the brake retaining collar towards the muzzle, cut about 95-97% through it, stop just before you hit the barrel/muzzle end, stop leaving about .1 of material, then stick the edge of a good cold chisel in to the cut and hit it with a hammer. It should spread the collar, or spread enough to release it enough to tell if it is threaded on. :)
« Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 02:04:53 PM by Greasemonkey »
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #27 on: January 10, 2017, 04:21:27 PM »
If I cannot get them to budge after stovetopping it I am not going to get much crazier than that on my own. I would rather not ruin the brake only to find that it is threaded...and already... 'ruined'....but functional.  I may try the chemical concoctions you mentioned earlier if all else fails.  It would be nice to not mess up the bluing by resorting to unignited napalm...but since my garage is separate from my house...

If I can get one screw out, and discover it is threaded...I am going to stop there, as there may be no point in going any further without wrecking what is left of the poor thing. With my luck, the other Krink I have without the fancy tune up job will have a different thread pattern, that is if the threads wouldn't be thrashed from my overzealous attack upon it. Once all the stuff in the mail arrives...I will have a complete gun, I would like it to be functional.

My defeat may not mean no bayonet though...I COULD perhaps arc weld a new Chinese bayo lug on, skillfully destroying another FSB to do so, allowing for a Yugoslavian bayonet handle to be used on an Albanian spike...then throw the whole thing on a lathe and mill out a groove on the Krink for the bayonet handle to lock into. At that rate, why not go balls out crazy and make it a left handed side folder. The groove would go all the way around anyway...not that I am left handed...but lefty stuff brings a premium. I wonder if I could squeeze in an ambi safety lever on the old style Russian FCGs.... rofl

Before I let my mind wander further...I am gonna go heat up the stove and see what happens.
If I don't reply in a timely manner, it will be due to the healing skin grafts from my butt onto my fingertips. 
They do exfoliate first....Don't they?

Offline Greasemonkey

  • Professional foul mouth. Banned for life!! Certified Enabler
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • The only way to avoid SKS #2, is avoid SKS #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2017, 04:47:19 PM »
Why you think I'm not a mechanic any longer... rofl2 air tools, torches, plasma cutters, hydraulic pullers, presses, power tools, jacks, ceiling hoists, frame straighteners, trailer benders, fork lifts, 4 foot pipe wrenches, great big hammers..  thumb1

give me enough time I can destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet, tear a concrete slab up with a q-tip.  thumb1  Now I tell...errr, instruct people how to break stuff... rofl2

Make a jig and hook a 25 ton gear puller to that brake, fire up the torch and cut it off, use a plasma or air arc cutter, stick it in a 100 ton press and give it a gentle nudge.


Good luck....remember hair and fingernails grow back, cuts heal as do burns, even bones heal..  thumb1 Most any injury can be fixed with a dab of super glue, a thick coating of Neosporin, a shop rag, use a clean one, diesel takes the Neosporin off, and wrap it with a few wraps of electrical tape... :) Use white thread for stitches, dyes can cause an infection and it's winter, so you have plenty of ice for a burn thumb1
Now if the bone pops out, blood spurts or it breaks out in real flames and gets crispy, well ahh.. I never quite made it that far, guess thats what 911 is for.. :o 

Jimmy has had way to much coffee today  rofl chuckles1 rofl2
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #29 on: January 10, 2017, 05:34:29 PM »
My kitchen smells like a chicken coop....a big commercial coop.

But....

I got the bastard.

It is NOT threaded  dance2 It does have some circular dings from the ratcheting on they did...but it is off.  Hopefully this gunk didn't seep into the FSB much, as it is crusted on all the way around it. Hopefully frying it caused a chemical change that makes it not so bleeding close to welding. The nice thing is, they at least left it in the white before putting the brake on and spray painting it.

I can now safely say this gun is now 99% devoid of paint...don't ask where the 1% is...I ain't tellin'...and it is up to the forensics people to find it, should they purchase it. And since it isn't for sale...that little tidbit will go with me to my urn. My urn with a Krink for a handle.



I haven't decided if I am going to taint today's victory by trying to remove the FSB right away. Based on the roll pin in one hole and the oversized original in the other, post neuterment...It's safe to say that someone went as far as to remove the pins in the past...destroying one of them.  I don't see any of the damage akin to what I have done to these things trying to remove them in the past...so either it slid right off....(yeah, right)...or they had the proper pulling apparatus....or they gave up and just chopped the thing off right in front of it....the terror it must have felt.  :))

I may hold off until I have the replacement in front of me...because, if this thing just slips off...I have a Chinese FSB sitting right in front of me that I may be tempted to slide into place...which will inevitably get stuck on, canted no less and we will have to start this all over again.

I am now contemplating if it is really 'Bubba' putting the brake onto my 92 Sporter, which is...technically a Bubba...right? It might keep me from putting a proper FSB (it is just sitting there...taunting me) on it and making the world's first blade bayo short gas system thumbhole. Thoughts? :)

Offline Greasemonkey

  • Professional foul mouth. Banned for life!! Certified Enabler
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • The only way to avoid SKS #2, is avoid SKS #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #30 on: January 10, 2017, 06:04:46 PM »
:)  See, it wasn't that hard. fart1

Keep going... don't let a little victory stand in your way  thumb1 ... relish the taunting and tempting ideas.. The imagination is a terrible thing to waste.

Hit the kitchen with some of that freebreeze stuff.. and savour the mix of floral highlights with just a hint of chicken crap.. Smells like spring time here in the hills.  rofl
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Online Boris Badinov

  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1285
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #31 on: January 16, 2017, 09:48:04 PM »
Not sure how big the shows get in your vicinity, but I've seen hundreds of bayonets at the local big shows near me. Mostly spikes, some para spikes and the occasional blade. Mostly Yugos,  and then Chinese blades, and possibly an occasional Soviet blade I assume. But I'll keep an eye out for the unicorn matte black spike. It always makes the shows more interesting to have something unique to look for.

EDIT: Oh, wait. That ferrule looks like it's made for a blade. Noted.

Offline pcke2000

  • SKS-FILES CONTRIBUTOR
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1153
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #32 on: January 16, 2017, 11:26:19 PM »
Not sure how big the shows get in your vicinity, but I've seen hundreds of bayonets at the local big shows near me. Mostly spikes, some para spikes and the occasional blade. Mostly Yugos,  and then Chinese blades, and possibly an occasional Soviet blade I assume. But I'll keep an eye out for the unicorn matte black spike. It always makes the shows more interesting to have something unique to look for.

EDIT: Oh, wait. That ferrule looks like it's made for a blade. Noted.

Blued SKS spike bayonets are difficult to find,  blued Russian SKS spike bayonets are very very difficult to find.

Offline pcke2000

  • SKS-FILES CONTRIBUTOR
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1153
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #33 on: January 16, 2017, 11:27:30 PM »
And Russian SKS spike bayonet is not matte black

Online Boris Badinov

  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1285
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #34 on: January 18, 2017, 01:27:04 PM »
And Russian SKS spike bayonet is not matte black

Was not aware of this. Never seen one up close.  One day...hopefully.

Offline Greasemonkey

  • Professional foul mouth. Banned for life!! Certified Enabler
  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • The only way to avoid SKS #2, is avoid SKS #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #35 on: January 18, 2017, 02:04:03 PM »
Not sure how big the shows get in your vicinity, but I've seen hundreds of bayonets at the local big shows near me. Mostly spikes, some para spikes and the occasional blade. Mostly Yugos,  and then Chinese blades, and possibly an occasional Soviet blade I assume. But I'll keep an eye out for the unicorn matte black spike. It always makes the shows more interesting to have something unique to look for.

EDIT: Oh, wait. That ferrule looks like it's made for a blade. Noted.

If your finding Yugoslavian M59 bayonets and aint buying them... What the hell is wrong with you... Those are like finding hens teeth, and your just letting flip fundage slip through your fingers.  :)
I'm going to make him an offer he can't refuse......

Leave the gun, take the cannoli.

I said I was an addict........I didn't say I had a problem

Offline newchi

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Marksman
  • *
  • Posts: 640
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #36 on: January 20, 2017, 05:57:02 PM »
And Russian SKS spike bayonet is not matte black

Was not aware of this. Never seen one up close.  One day...hopefully.

Tra-la!
No they are not matte, but i like them anyway.

Offline pcke2000

  • SKS-FILES CONTRIBUTOR
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Sharp-Shooter
  • *
  • Posts: 1153
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #37 on: January 20, 2017, 07:40:00 PM »
And Russian SKS spike bayonet is not matte black

Was not aware of this. Never seen one up close.  One day...hopefully.

Tra-la!
No they are not matte, but i like them anyway.


both Russian spike and blade bayonets are supposed to be blued.

Offline Justin Hell

  • Bubba/Purist Flip Flopper
  • BATTLEFIELD COMMISSION
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 2588
  • First Restore... Then Bubba.
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #38 on: February 09, 2017, 02:32:47 PM »
A bit of an update....grab a beverage and a chair, this got long winded...photos will follow later, I don't feel like dealing with photobucket after writing this tome over the last couple of days.

My camera with a working flash has bucked the kicket...so now I have to wait for sunny days to get shots of my progress. I do have several photos to post, it just sucks now because a lot of the proof stamps are a lot more visible when I can switch between flash and no flash. Especially on the stuff that is in the white...This has been compounded by my vision, I am back in glasses on an iffy prescription...using the 'puter has been difficult for the eyes lately...so I have been hesitant to post.

Here is the progress since I left off....

I got a laminate stock for it....and it is nice, but it doesn't fit worth a damn...the recoil lug is too far forward, and nearly allows slippage out of the stock retaining ferrule. Fortunately in the opposite direction of recoil, so it can be made to work...but never properly.

Around the same time I also bought a poorly listed Russian stock that looked thinner in the bayonet area than a normal Russian stock, and it has two reinforcement pins...roughly in the proper location, but about a quarter inch apart. It seems like there may have been some wood added to it in the bayonet cut area...a raised portion exists between the tip of the bayonet cut and the mag cutout that I haven't seen on other Russian stocks, the grain is either hiding this from being obvious....or is causing my mind to 'think' it is there.  It is also very light in color compared to typical Russians...it is a lot closer to the amber the Chinese used...but with that same smeared shellac look Russians are known for.  It's safety lever cutout is very rounded and smaller looking. It has a rather large refurb [\] stamp on the right side of the butt and on the left three XXXs above a four digit serial. There might have been a star there...but I cannot consistently see one...only a tiny < that might be a scratch. It is rather pretty...but, I discovered it is also sporting a pretty decent crack at the charging side recess...so, it will patiently sit waiting to see if I can either learn more about it, or convert it (back?) to a spike.  It fits much better than the laminate, but still isn't quite right.

Moving on...I also purchased an early 50 hand etched receiver cover, as it is likely the closest I am going to find anytime soon for a cover.  After ordering it, I saw that the seller was selling the matching trigger group....mine had yet to arrive from him, so I arranged an exchange.  I then made the stupid move of asking if he had anymore of that gun laying around. Turns out, he had the force matched stock, the gas tube and piston. Unfortunately...not the mag. So I ordered a period correct mag from him too...which will be the only non matching part between the 49 and the donor 50.  Somewhere in this melee of packages coming from Canada, I got the obscure lightening cut/straight eared front sight block...completely stripping and refinishing it, installing it on the gun...and then realizing I was an idiot noticed the lightening cuts...fortunately, that happened at the same time as the trigger exchange...so it went back.

All of that arrived yesterday....the stock is still ill fitting, the gas tube was almost unfitted to any SKS...and had to be filed to fit from what appeared to be almost untouched metal at the business end. It didn't take much, and it still has less of an angle ground for the retaining lever than any of my other tubes.  The trigger group for 49's also seem to be thinner at the rear, which caused me to have to file a tad off of the retaining 'spring' otherwise there wasn't enough clearance for the group to fully lock into place...which was blocking the safety at about  50%. I wish I didn't have to remove anything from the 49. but shaving down the inside of that spot on the trigger group looked about impossible to pull off with my tools. I shouldn't have done it, and I regretted every pass of the file, but in order to retain the matching status of the donor parts it seemed like a good idea at the time...sure enough...my thoughts about it were correct, and an earlier version of this version of trigger group popped up on eBay....and that recess is deeper on the older trigger frames....just my luck. 

The magazine was interesting. Aside from being Canadian and instantly required modification to remove the stupid pin off of the follower, I wasn't expecting much other than the pain in the ass it is to remove paint from the insides of those damn things.  I had already stripped and beutified a horrible rust bucket of a mag for this gun...so I kind of thought I knew what to expect.  While stripping it of it's paint...inspection marks started popping out that were completely invisible before. There are three inside the bottom of the floorplate alone!  There are a couple on the sides too, that were not visible either. The really cool thing I discovered, and would like to check with you guys if you have one to compare....is that the last two digits of the mag's serial were stamped towards the front of the mag, once on the body where the four welds are, and then again on the very front of the follower. Both of these are as large a font as could fit on these pieces, yet wasn't visible until considerable scrubbing with acid brought them out.  I would like to think this is a further truncation of the full serial on these...as it would be a huge coincidence that 23 would be stamped on these two parts, and the serial also ends in 23.  I would imagine that this was a major pain in the neck for them to do long term, and was likely phased out early on....but, those are a couple more data points that could be used to identify a 100% original gun.  I didn't risk taking this one fully apart once the pin appeared to mean business...far more than the previous mag. I didn't want to screw it up trying to strip the inside as (almost) well as I did before. Since the mag isn't matching to either gun this was spawned from...I didn't care to get full on Smithsonian when restoring it. One other thing I noticed is that the metal quality used is far greater than whatever nation made the previous mag...in the white, it shone like a mirror. Since rebluing...it looks brand new....aside from a tiny hole the size of a pencil lead in the follower. It even shows a tightness at the hinge I haven't seen before...it's snug!         

OK....had an interruption while writing this...and I also have stripped and reblued the gas tube now. What worried me at first has proven to be correct. The removal of the paint and refinishing process has nearly eradicated the electro penciled serial on the tube. It seems as if the paint is hard and brittle enough that the impact of the penciling flaked off a large swath of the paint. The actual serial meeting metal is the same as seen on Chinese through the bluing. The stripping of the paint knocked down the edges so much that after bluing it is only faintly visible, in the proper light, held at a specific angle while hopping up and down on one foot. For this reason, despite the 'marriage' of the 50's tube and piston for the last 67 years...I am going to use the 49's piston. I can't think of a better place for the union of these two guns to 'consumate'.  chuckles1

I did all of that at night, so I didn't bother taking photos. Aside from major quality differences, and a slight difference in the profile where the front top of the tube meets the wood, the process of doing the Chinese one compared to the Russian were similar...so I may include those when it comes to my next barrage of photos.

The Russian sight ladder has been on quite an adventure, coming from Siberia...off to Moscow, then landing stateside in NY...shuffled to Billings Montana...a hop, skip and a seven hour drive from me....only to vanish into thin air somewhere between us...registered mail no less. banghead1

I have a replacement lined up, and it actually is a good thing because I am getting so much cool information from this guy...further excuse for dialogue with this fellow is welcomed. I only worry that my impatience may lead to me seeking out the strong possibility that I might be able to get the complete RSB from the 50 too...with the ladder included. I hope I am wrong that it's availability is a reality, but I have had this gun complete in so many ways minus the sight ladder since week two in this endeavor. There is a period correct ladder off of one of my Chinese that currently has a scout mount that has been just sitting on the shelf next to me...taunting me....but I look at the pristine bluing, and keep telling myself it is much easier to snap them in than it is to pop them back out....so I have been fighting the urge.

Since the main point was to get a bayonet back on this thing...I shall address that again. The misadventure of the FSB issues on this continue. Despite what I would have thought to be the biggest pain in the neck, the removal and installation actually on and off the barrel, that has been amazingly easy in every regard. The fact that I have now stripped and refinished THREE of them is getting a little old...yet that isn't the problem either. The damn thing is loose enough that you cannot get the thing to go on without becoming canted while driving in the second pin. It is actually kind of tough to get the first pin started without it spinning. I have tried a few different methods, and have another couple in mind to get it right. I am close this time...close enough that if you weren't looking for it, you likely wouldn't notice...but I notice and its bothering the hell out of me. I am going to try driving the pins in from the opposite direction and see if that helps. I am pretty sure that they had the pins at slightly different locations, and it seems to me, but only after seeing a few examples close enough, that the 49 and early 50 had the FSB butted up to the step in the barrel diameter that you usually see a gap between. It leaves very little room (I almost said wiggle room...but it has plenty of that) to play with. The depth into the barrel seems to be shallower on the 50 FSB vs. the scores in the barrel, I think that is where my canting problem resides. I just hesitate to whack this thing straight...I am really hoping that never in my lifetime will I ever have to strip and refinish another one of these bastards....they are not fun.

On to the bayonet. My research has been sending my head in circles...and I read almost everything in a Russian accent now. It kind of reminds me of that Clint Eastwood movie Firefox where he flies the stolen Russian jet with his mind and has to think in Russian. Only without the 80's movie soundtrack and a lot more cussing....at least I 'think' its cussing. Basically, every sound you make while clearing one's throat of a particularly thick hocker...that happens sometimes. It has to be mental profanity.

I have now seen enough of the 49 spike to know originals are not reworked M44 bayonets, but I am 99% sure they simply adjusted the tooling to work and they were born of the same idea....and quite likely the same equipment. I am having a hard time with the translations from Russian message boards but it seems as if they have either narrowed down either the SKS or the M44 spike as actually being of Polish origin. It is kind of funny...they seem to have similar heated discussions about this same topic there. What is cute is how much they seem to covet the Chinese spike...and how expensive they are to obtain there. There are folks there comparing the M44 to the Chinese, and to the actual Russian SKS spike...and it seems that folk over there are converting the M44s over for use on SKSs too...again, it is hard to be sure through the translation...but that was what I am getting from it. From what I have seen, it seems the whole spike is slightly lightened compared to an M44...maybe 95% of one in mass. There also sounded like a guy stating that in the past at 'gatherings' (gun shows?) there would be buckets of the SKS spikes....sigh. I have seen enough of them cut to within the last thread of being able to withstand their own weight without bending that I would gladly accept one of those to complete this....with a spike.

The gun currently is sporting the most gawdawfulfugly period correct polished blade on earth...one side is heavily pockmarked in a couple of spots the other side looks like there are a couple of regions of miniature half cooked Jiffy Pops under the chrome. I have had this for years, and never expected to put it onto a gun where it would be correct for it to be there. The bayonet choice is likely going to be ultimately what I can locate. Since it has the blade cut stock retainer, I am going to shoot for a blued blade if I can ever find one, I doubt I am going to find a spike stock...so I would have to make one, which seems blasphemous...but would be necessary to deal with the large stock retainer...unless I could locate a small one...which is a tall order in and of itself...maybe even more so....nearly needle in a haystack in more ways than one. I do have an M44 bayonet that I want to get machined (any takers out there?) to work. If I have to settle on the stock being faux, the bayonet might as well be too...and I have the materials to do it, rather than hope against hope I can locate three unicorns grazing on the side of a rock candy mountain, in the fall, so the leaves from the money tree are just there for the raking.

I likely will have two versions of this, one with the 50 stock, and whatever blade I settle for since that is what it is set up for...and another version set up with one of the other stocks that will be for a spike bubba version....at least that way I can live up to my credo...sorta.

I am still on the fence about whether this ever had a spike or not, I see some information stating the blade started in late 49 and others that it started in early 50...either one leaves margin for error on other features being 100% year specific. Based on what I have experienced in fitting nearly every donor part from an early 50, I am convinced at this point this is a 49 for sure...despite not having the original cover, and the ambiguity of previously set in stone component parameters being locked into a specific year.  The difficulty involved in fitting the cover makes me think that even the early 50 differs considerably in very difficult to see ways from the 49. I had to file considerably from several surfaces to get a fit...and it is still extremely tight. The curve where the cover meets receiver on the front left side is totally wrong too.  Since the 49 is an EO and the early 50 is an Ey and the fact that alphabetically makes sense in both languages is a factor or not weighs on my mind too...it might make absolutely zero difference...but still. After seeing several heavily refurbed 49 spikers that kept the small ferrule, I am doubting mine was changed at a refurb, otherwise more would likely have been done...like the whole barrel.  I had considered that perhaps when encountered with the small stock ferrule the original owner removed everything and swapped it out....since the pins for both the retainer and gas block had been replaced with roll pins one might have thought that, but the leftover evidence in the nooks and crannies in both locations from the media blasting seem to indicate an attempt may have been made to remove them, that was later abandoned. AND you have to take into account the blob evolution and how mine seems to fit into a timeline regarding its lack of one.

 I am leaning towards considering this restored with a blued blade and the early 50 parts until suitable certifiable 49 parts come along....which reminds me, I have to look for a proper 49 mag without the stud for the spring too...talk about a tall order.

As it currently stands...

1949 EO series host:
Receiver, barrel, RSB, stock retainer, gas block, carrier, complete bolt, and pistons and springs and period correct levers and things

1950 Ey series donor:
Receiver cover, gas tube, trigger group, force matched stock, and if the fight between good and evil continues to this very day, possibly a sight ladder and spare gas block to go along with the spare gas piston this gun provided.

Unknown period correct donations:
KA series magazine, FSB, bayonet, bayonet handle, cleaning kit

Abominable mention:
NC Star cleaning rod...help me...I am in hell....I assume the closest thing I could get to correct would be a genuine m44 rod right?

Honorable mention:
KA series force matched (once) dark laminate stock and the four digit mystery stock...both possibly ill fated.

Schultz's top secret mention:
an ill fated M44 bayonet

Made possible from loans from:
1965 /26\  trigger group, thanks for holding it all together in a pinch
Unknown Chinese two piece gas tube, thanks for keeping the piston holstered
Unknown Chinese one piece gas tube, thanks for keeping the piston holstered, and the practice.
Unknown magazine, thanks for keeping the mystery alive and for being as loose and easy to work with as a drunk prom date.
1978 /26\ inverted takedown stock...thanks for making Grandpa listen to disco...that was funny for a couple of days.

Donations from this host include:
Norinco receiver cover scope mount, never a moment when I didn't think you had my back...enjoy life on that 64 /26\ bubba buddy!
Williams peep sight, found a new home on my first project gun a 0226 Choate Drag thing...freeing up that damned sight ladder it was borrowing to just taunt me from the shelf....argh!
Krinkesque muzzle device: Now looks slicker than goose excrement through a silver horn on my 92 Sporter.
The original neutered FSB may end up on a bayonet free build down the road, it doesn't deserve to go out to pasture just because someone Californicated all over it.
The orange Tapco sight post was donated to my 1966 steel Schlitz garbage can, and made a nice ping when it hit bottom.

Online running-man

  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (+5)
  • Sniper
  • *
  • Posts: 6865
  • The only way to avoid Mosin #2 is avoid Mosin #1!
Re: 90 degrees of Bubba
« Reply #39 on: February 09, 2017, 03:13:04 PM »
The really cool thing I discovered, and would like to check with you guys if you have one to compare....is that the last two digits of the mag's serial were stamped towards the front of the mag, once on the body where the four welds are, and then again on the very front of the follower. Both of these are as large a font as could fit on these pieces, yet wasn't visible until considerable scrubbing with acid brought them out.  I would like to think this is a further truncation of the full serial on these...as it would be a huge coincidence that 23 would be stamped on these two parts, and the serial also ends in 23.  I would imagine that this was a major pain in the neck for them to do long term, and was likely phased out early on....but, those are a couple more data points that could be used to identify a 100% original gun. 

...

Since the 49 is an EO and the early 50 is an Ey and the fact that alphabetically makes sense in both languages is a factor or not weighs on my mind too...it might make absolutely zero difference...but still.

...

 I am leaning towards considering this restored with a blued blade and the early 50 parts until suitable certifiable 49 parts come along....which reminds me, I have to look for a proper 49 mag without the stud for the spring too...talk about a tall order.

Wow Justin, quite the tale there!  :o  Hopefully you're having a good time with her though? 

1) Mag stuff is a new observation to me.  Sounds like it would be difficult to verify if they are indeed that hard to see.  Sure seems like the mag would be a completed subassembly long before it got put onto a gun, i.e. long before it got a S/N stamped.  Maybe if they did a total refurb to pull everything apart for cleaning and inspection, but I have a hard time coming up with a scenario where this would be done to a brand new mag unless the workers assembled the mag from piece parts right alongside the new gun being built.  It could be the 23's and the S/N ending in 23 are a coincidence too...

2) EO vs. EУ prefix might as well be AB vs ЮЯ.  I see definite patterns of first and second letter reuse within a year, but its definitely not AA, AБ, AВ, AГ and so on...

3) Not sure what you're talking about with the stud for the spring on the '49 magazine?  Got a photo that shows the difference?