AK and AR > AR Family
Anyone have the patience to school me on an AR lower?
running-man:
I've been thinking of getting a few AR lowers to stash away for a rainy day. I'm not looking to build anything in the near future, just looking to turn a small amount of little green pieces of paper into something that could be used/sold/bartered/finished up later on. Ideally I would have posted this a couple months ago when prices were at rock bottom, but we don't have full blown panic (yet) from current events and I'm hoping that things settle down a bit and we get another glut after Christmas and prices come in another 10 or 20%.
At any rate, I've no experience with anything AR. So here are my specific questions:
* Is there a large spectrum of quality difference between lowers of different manufacture?
* Is there a major difference between polymer and aluminum? Weight, price, longevity etc?
* Are there any manufacturers to specifically avoid because of well known QA/safety issues?
* Are there any specific features to look for?
* What specialized tools are required to go from a table full of parts to a safely functioning AR? Obviously headspace gauges, but also maybe things like barrel nut wrench and ...?
* When you see 'blemish' sales, what does that actually mean? Is it just cosmetic defects or could it be out of spec issues or other hidden gotchas that such items should be generally be avoided?
Power Surge:
I can't answer all the questions, but I'll help with what I can.
AR lowers are still out there for a good price. Anything under $100 is a decent deal, depending on how complete it is. You can buy "raw" lowers for about $40, but they require full machining. The most common lowers are called 80% lowers. They are almost fully completed, you just need to finish them off, usually it's drilling the trigger group holes. Anything over 80% is considered a functional part, and requires a serial and FFL transfer. You can buy 100% lowers with serials.
Keep in mind, as an individual, you can buy an 80% lower and build a non-serialed gun for your personal use. However, if you try to sell it, you are now considered a manufacturer, and would need a manufacturer's FFL license and add a serial to the gun.
Quality wise, I can't comment. I don't deal with many. It's just so much cheaper to buy a complete factory gun nowadays. Every brand sells a $550 complete model.
As for aluminum vs poly... I have never seen a poly lower only for sale, but if they exist I'd stay away from them. Windham Weaponry is the ONLY manufacture that has perfected poly/carbon ARs. All the others have issues.
Tool wise, an AR multi tool should do most of what you need, depending on what you are doing for an upper (assembled upper or scratch built).
The other thing to consider...many times mismatched uppers and lowers don't fit together well. Another reason I like a complete factory gun.
Loose}{Cannon:
--- Quote from: running-man on December 08, 2015, 09:15:32 PM ---
At any rate, I've no experience with anything AR. So here are my specific questions:
There is only like three makers of standard lowers not including specialty lowers. They simply receive the finish and logo of the customer.
* Is there a large spectrum of quality difference between lowers of different manufacture?
Not really... Just finish differences mainly.
* Is there a major difference between polymer and aluminum? Weight, price, longevity etc?
My cousin has a poly lower... Works great and looks decent, but I prefer the alum because thats the way its supposed to be and I have seen some ugly broken poly lowers on line.
* Are there any manufacturers to specifically avoid because of well known QA/safety issues?
Quality wise... Not really. I don't particularly like the ones with the built in trigger guards because they look funky and dont allow upgraded guards. Original guard design lets you swing in down for use with thick gloves too..
* Are there any specific features to look for?
My opinion.... Standard alum with standard trigger guard.
* What specialized tools are required to go from a table full of parts to a safely functioning AR? Obviously headspace gauges, but also maybe things like barrel nut wrench and ...?
Universal AR tool with barrel nut wrench, upper vice block, misc small tools for lower assembly that you likely have... Razor blade, vice grips, tape.
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS HEADSPACING AN AR... the barrel seat depth into the upper and the receiving socket are all made within tight specs..... Done. You can freely swap barrels all day long without issue.
* When you see 'blemish' sales, what does that actually mean? Is it just cosmetic defects or could it be out of spec issues or other hidden gotchas that such items should be generally be avoided?
Its cosmetic finish only... Will not be spec problem... May not even see it.
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Just message me a link if you want me to look at anything.
Loose}{Cannon:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=529758058
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carls sks:
just got into AR's myself. I bought complete lowers from PSA because of a few reasons. didn't want to go to the cost of buying the tools needed to put together and didn't know anything about how to do it correctly. PSA has some great deals too. have bought blems and never could find anything wrong with them.
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