Cleaning rod falling out, "No more"!

[Weldrdave]

Hello everyone, I hope this little trick helps some because it was diving me nuts!  As some of you know, I have a SKS that has been "Californized", Bayonet lug was milled off so I was shooting today and the cleaning rod fell out about every 5th round or so... I packed up and went right to the hardware store.  So I knew exactly what was going to fix this.  Hope this helps some of you.
It's a 1/4"-20 Flat type speed nut and will push right over the cleaning rod and lock it into place as shown.  If you "do" need to remove it, it will with a little encouragement. 
So, I went back to my club and shot 40 more rounds and it didn't move.  Success!  . I would sand or file the edges a little, it may tear a soft case. 

[carls sks]

don't have that problem, but thanks Dave. 

[Phosphorus32]

Ingenuity 

[running-man]

Nice little fix Dave.

I’ve also seen small o-rings around the rod used in that exact same location.

[firstchoice]

I can't remember how the detent system on the neutered bayo guns, (was it Navy Arms that did that?), that had the spring-loaded detent setup to keep the cleaning rods in, was constructed. Was it simply a ball-bearing and a spring, pinged to keep it in?  Or, did it use a hardened "plunger" of sorts with the spring?  I don't know if it would help a lot of owners, but it definitely would help the ones that have the rifles like the OP.

I don't have a drill press set up right now or I'd go out and fiddle my way through it. I'm sure someone with access to an original detent system and a few tools could figure out the drill bit sizes, ball bearing size or plunger, (which could probably be sourced from some already-manufactured parts from hardware stores or gun parts suppliers.) If one would take the time, a list of parts and instructions could "probably" be easily drawn up for future owners to use. 

Just a thought...

firstchoice

[Larry D.]

Love to see ingenuity in action.
I know a guy that has a neutered SKS that may be able to use this...Or maybe I'll buy it and use this trick myself....
Good job.

[Weldrdave]

Nice little fix Dave.

I’ve also seen small o-rings around the rod used in that exact same location.

I thought hard about the "O" ring but I didn't know how it would hold up to the heat there?  I am gonna smooth off the edges with my table/belt sander.  I just wanted to see if this worked.  I was happy about the outcome. 

[Greasemonkey]

As bad as it sounds.. When I shoot one, usually I just remove the rod and leave it behind at the house. It's one less thing to loose and or listen to it rattle.

[running-man]

I can't remember how the detent system on the neutered bayo guns, (was it Navy Arms that did that?), that had the spring-loaded detent setup to keep the cleaning rods in, was constructed. Was it simply a ball-bearing and a spring, pinged to keep it in?  Or, did it use a hardened "plunger" of sorts with the spring?  I don't know if it would help a lot of owners, but it definitely would help the ones that have the rifles like the OP.

I don't have a drill press set up right now or I'd go out and fiddle my way through it. I'm sure someone with access to an original detent system and a few tools could figure out the drill bit sizes, ball bearing size or plunger, (which could probably be sourced from some already-manufactured parts from hardware stores or gun parts suppliers.) If one would take the time, a list of parts and instructions could "probably" be easily drawn up for future owners to use. 

Just a thought...

firstchoice

Here's the detent on my Clayco M8 FC.  It's a neat design:




The threaded plug shown in my photos is staked in place.  Beneath the plug is a blind hole (or perhaps a counter bore) that houses a ball bearing and spring and then a smaller thru hole to allow a portion of the ball bearing to protrude into the cavity where the cleaning rod goes.  The idea behind this is for the spring to compress the ball bearing and force it into the side of the cleaning rod, keeping the head of the cleaning rod secured in the 4 fingers at the bottom of the front sight block.   

[Weldrdave]

I can't remember how the detent system on the neutered bayo guns, (was it Navy Arms that did that?), that had the spring-loaded detent setup to keep the cleaning rods in, was constructed. Was it simply a ball-bearing and a spring, pinged to keep it in?  Or, did it use a hardened "plunger" of sorts with the spring?  I don't know if it would help a lot of owners, but it definitely would help the ones that have the rifles like the OP.

I don't have a drill press set up right now or I'd go out and fiddle my way through it. I'm sure someone with access to an original detent system and a few tools could figure out the drill bit sizes, ball bearing size or plunger, (which could probably be sourced from some already-manufactured parts from hardware stores or gun parts suppliers.) If one would take the time, a list of parts and instructions could "probably" be easily drawn up for future owners to use. 

Just a thought...

firstchoice

Here's the detent on my Clayco M8 FC.  It's a neat design:




The threaded plug shown in my photos is staked in place.  Beneath the plug is a blind hole (or perhaps a counter bore) that houses a ball bearing and spring and then a smaller thru hole to allow a portion of the ball bearing to protrude into the cavity where the cleaning rod goes.  The idea behind this is for the spring to compress the ball bearing and force it into the side of the cleaning rod, keeping the head of the cleaning rod secured in the 4 fingers at the bottom of the front sight block.

That's some fine work and well thought out!  I went for the "quick" fix 

[Greasemonkey]

I can't remember how the detent system on the neutered bayo guns, (was it Navy Arms that did that?), that had the spring-loaded detent setup to keep the cleaning rods in, was constructed. Was it simply a ball-bearing and a spring, pinged to keep it in?  Or, did it use a hardened "plunger" of sorts with the spring?

firstchoice

This is my CSI SKSNR... same exact design as RMs Clayco M8

[firstchoice]

Yeah, it's been a while since I had seen one. It's a threaded plug? I didn't know that, but it makes sense. I was trying to figure out how they kept that plunger/plug in while they tried to ping it to secure it!    That would make some interesting shop time!    Springs, ball bearings, and plugs a flying!

Anyway, that should make for a fairly easy shop project if all the sizes and parts were described and listed. And a half-way decent "how-to" was drawn up. I may try to figure it out this winter unless someone wants to beat me to it. Like I said, it won't be a highly used project, but the ones who do want to use it should appreciate it in the future.

As far as a quick fix goes, Weldrdave's idea is great. Or, a high heat o-ring. It's up to the individual to use what he has at hand. Ingenuity works!

firstchoice

 

[Greasemonkey]

Strange design for a threaded plug.. no way to tighten it or even grab on to it. I figured it was like a tiny freeze plug pressed in then staked in 4 spots. The spring/ball detent wouldn't be hard....   Machine the spot out to hold the ball, stick a spring in, then press the little cap in and stake it..

One could drill up through the bottom, tap and install a 1/8 or even a 1/16 small set screw to hold the rod in place as well, and hey... it's no rattle too.. I can't imagine that hurting anything, the block is already messed up.. say thanks Mr. Gooberment for messing up my bayonet mount.. 

Note to self... Self, if self buys an SKS.. maybe someday...... that is by chance neutured.. drill it, screw it and give that rod some support.

[running-man]

Now you guys have me curious...I wonder if it is indeed pressed in place and not threaded.  I always assumed threaded because why do you need 4 rotational stakes to hold a pressed plug in place?  GM's right though, no way to screw that badboy in, but if it is free running and the spring pressure is light, maybe your fingers is all you need?  Dang, now I want to pull one apart. 

[Greasemonkey]

Could just be a very mild interference press fit.. use a small arbor press and poof.. stake it for extra assurance. Chinese were out to do it fast and cheap.