SKS-FILES FORUM
Miscellaneous => Care, Cleaning, and Restoration => Restoration and Refinishing => Topic started by: bbush44 on October 29, 2014, 02:24:57 PM
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I have bought around 8 Chinese sks stocks off ebay from buymilsurp, that were advertised as "very used, cracked, greasy", and have been trying different methods to restore/refinish them just in case I bought another with an unusable stock or want to debubba one sometime. A few of the stocks have taken a bunch of work to even get some where close to useable, and others have a small crack here or there or no cracks at all, but all have been very used, greasy, etc.
One I am currently working on had a couple of cracks on the forend, that I glued up nice and sturdy, but are still noticeable. The thing I like about this stock is the wood grain, I have not seen a Chinese stock with this much grain before. So I thought I would share with you all here. Anyone seen one like this before on a Chinese sks?
DISCLAIMER: I am far from an expert on restoring stocks, and each one I have done has gotten a little better in my opinion. If you think it looks like dog poo, please tell me I have tough skin. :)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/20141029_124702_resized_1.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/20141029_124702_resized_1.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/20141029_124635_resized_1.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/20141029_124635_resized_1.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/20141029_124628_resized_1.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/20141029_124628_resized_1.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/20141029_124658_resized_1.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/20141029_124658_resized_1.jpg.html)
Brian
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Very interesting grain pattern for sure. Looks similar to the stocks I've seen on some of the recent imports on "ghosts".
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That is a nice grain pattern Brian! The mid ugly yellow stocks seem to not have this kind of grain at all. I've got two samples of wood ready to send out for lab analysis, but I've not been able to get up off my rear to actually do it.
I was actually holding out to get an early (less than 30k) ghost stock for comparison to the 160k/3.16 mil and late large font stocks that I've got. I may just wind up coring some samples from under the buttplate of some of my guns and see if that will give them enough of a sample to make a determination.
One of these days…
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"Dog poo" my hind leg...that looks danged good to me Brian! Though I know very little about the stocks on these critters that one is definitely different.
Good idea about buying and refinishing stocks Brian. I may start doing the same as you, I could use the practice and that's for sure!
What did you use on that stock?
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RM,
As we had discussed a few months back, I believe the stocks I received are all 2-3mil stocks. Serial #'s are small font, blade cut bayo and bottom swivel.
Here is one of them, that I really have no plans to try and refinish.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123542.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123542.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123552.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123552.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123558.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123558.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123609.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123609.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123616.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123616.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123634.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123634.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123647.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123647.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123654.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123654.jpg.html)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123700.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123700.jpg.html)
If you want it for your lab analysis you are more than welcome to have it. Let me know where to cut it and send it.
Thanks
Brian
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Brian.... please post the serials of any stock you may have to donate. We know enough about theseserials to narrow ddown exactly what variation its from. We REALLY need a ghost stock. Q
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"Dog poo" my hind leg...that looks danged good to me Brian! Though I know very little about the stocks on these critters that one is definitely different.
Good idea about buying and refinishing stocks Brian. I may start doing the same as you, I could use the practice and that's for sure!
What did you use on that stock?
Thanks Danny, they look nothing like the ones LC does, but I got to learn somewhere.
After getting them all cleaned up, degreased, decosmoed, etc...I did very little sanding to smooth them up with some 150 grit. I then used a 50/50 mix of dark walnut and red oak stain. Once I was happy with the color I applied a coat of BLO, wait 30-45 minutes and wipe it all off. Then wait 24 hours, and go over the stock lightly with some steel wool, and apply another coat of BLO and repeat until I get the desired look. I believe this stock has 4 or 5 coats of BLO on it. As I stated I am just playing around with it so see what I like and could be doing this all backwards. :-\
Brian
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Brian.... please post the serials of any stock you may have to donate. We know enough about theseserials to narrow ddown exactly what variation its from. We REALLY need a ghost stock. Q
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123634.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/Replacement%20RTI%20Stock/Buymilsurp%20stocks/Stock%204/20140317_123634.jpg.html)
LC-Is this enough to tell, if not I can take a better picture later tonight. So far this is the only one I don't have any plans for. I will look at the others that are still covered in grease.
Brian
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I cant make out the #... see what you can come up with in person.
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I will look to tonight, and let you know.
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Effin A. Looks good to me. The finish is classic & classy, without any of that Gawdawful varnish or truoil or poly.
What kind of glue do you use and would you recommend it over my go-to for stock repair- Gorilla epoxy?
I still haven't mastered getting the epoxy in a tight crack. I use a razor blade...not sure if that's ideal.
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Blicero I have never done any repair work but I have heard of people using syringes with needles to inject glue into the cracks.
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I hear that all the time! But my hypodermics are reserved for shooting smack.
Seriously, that never made sense to me. Wouldn't epoxy be too thick to squirt thru a needle? And wouldn't it be damn near hardened by the time it's ready to inject? And where on earth does one obtain syringes? I've considered using my turkey baster but it's never come to that.
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You can get luer lock syringes & different gauge needles from medical supply places online. They are very affordable actually, a couple bucks a piece in qtys of 10 or so after shipping.
If the crack is all the way through, I've spread the crack with a blade, held it open with a screwdriver, gotten a piece of dental floss dipped into my epoxy/glue of choice, and then started 'flossin' it into the crack. It worked really well on the two cracks of the SinoBanian I fixed, you can't even tell they are there unless you know to look for them!
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Try to slightly spread the crack... push glue of choice into crack with flat cut nozzle of glue bottle, and followup press in by running you finger over the length of the crack with decent amount of clue sitting on top... apply pressure with finger. Close gap you created by spreading crack apart and whioe off excess. Clamp ot tape in place.
Syringes and razors are only good for very thin (like water) super-glue and very small/tight cracks.
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Just recently fixed a left side crack in this stock.... going to use it on the 6th year Chinaman I bought. :) Basically I kept it pretty dinged up and didn't sand much.
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/mrcoinring/ResizedImage_1414608221925.jpg)
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/mrcoinring/ResizedImage_1414606853635.jpg)
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Cannon that looks pretty darn good from where I'm sitting.
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I cant make out the #... see what you can come up with in person.
LC- The serial on the stock appears to be 212997 or 212897?
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y86/bbush44/20141029_182949_resized.jpg) (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/bbush44/media/20141029_182949_resized.jpg.html)
Let me know if you want it for your lab analysis?
Brian
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Effin A. Looks good to me. The finish is classic & classy, without any of that Gawdawful varnish or truoil or poly.
What kind of glue do you use and would you recommend it over my go-to for stock repair- Gorilla epoxy?
I still haven't mastered getting the epoxy in a tight crack. I use a razor blade...not sure if that's ideal.
Thanks Kevin, I just use an hardware store wood glue, maybe Elmers? I cant remember. I also have used a two part epoxy for wood I picked up at Menards. Problem with the epoxy is it drys so fast the crack doesn't close up all the way with clamps and is more noticeable.
I use a similar method as RM and LC, but I spread the crack open with a tooth pick, depending on the size of the crack I have used dental floss or a small brush to apply the glue. Then clamp the crack or tape it, then wipe of the excess. Here is where the epoxy causes an issue again, it will dry so quick the excess wont wipe off you usually need to use some type of alcohol or acetone. Which if your trying to save the original finish on a stock can cause issues. Hope this helps.
Brian
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Just recently fixed a left side crack in this stock.... going to use it on the 6th year Chinaman I bought. :) Basically I kept it pretty dinged up and didn't sand much.
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/mrcoinring/ResizedImage_1414608221925.jpg)
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/mrcoinring/ResizedImage_1414606853635.jpg)
Looks good LC, seeing how many of your stocks turn out is usually what I strive to achieve when I am doing a stock. Thanks for the advice/suggestions you have given me in the past.
Brian
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Hmmm.. that could be either a 6digi OR a 3m. Crap... we already have a 3m. Lets see what RM thinks
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I'm reading 272XX7 on that S/N Brian. 1's have a distinct bar at the bottom of the numeral and the spacing is just right on that character for a 7.
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q647/jelucer/Chinese/IOs/269971_stock.jpg)
272k puts it in definite ghost (sorry brain fart) six digit /26\ territory! Can't be a 2 mil as they go from ~2.368k to ~2.416k, and highest 3 mil I've seen is 3.234k.
I think this is a very good candidate! Some of the similarly numbered guns I've seen, like that 269k above seem to be less "Chu" like and more "Birch" like. What they really are is anyones guess, but it's worth a try to find out!
I'll PM you with details.
Thanks again!!! thumb1
-RM
PS: Apologies for the massive hijack of your thread by the way. Your refinishing job looks excellent! If it earns Blicero's seal of approval, you must be doing something right, that guy is tough to please! :)
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RM,
Looking at the picture again, I see the 272XX7 also, if it works for your lab analysis, it is all yours. No worries on the thread hijack.
Thanks
Brian
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Wow... that is a 7. Great catch RM!
We need that stock!! Lol
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Hey, nice job on that stock Brian! thumb1
Too bad you have to cut it up to send to RM rofl
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Hey, nice job on that stock Brian! thumb1
Too bad you have to cut it up to send to RM rofl
Thanks P32, but the one I am cutting up to send to RM isn't the one I refinished. I like RM, just not that much. rofl
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Hey, nice job on that stock Brian! thumb1
Too bad you have to cut it up to send to RM rofl
Thanks P32, but the one I am cutting up to send to RM isn't the one I refinished. I like RM, just not that much. rofl
D'OH!!! doh1
That Bbush guy has like 50 of these things. He apparently collects stocks like Blicero collects junky Yugos! wink1
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D'OH!!! doh1
That Bbush guy has like 50 of these things. He apparently collects stocks like Blicero collects junky Yugos! wink1
Not 50 of them, but I do have a pretty good pile. Why? I have no clue :o
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D'OH!!! doh1
That Bbush guy has like 50 of these things. He apparently collects stocks like Blicero collects junky Yugos! wink1
Not 50 of them, but I do have a pretty good pile. Why? I have no clue :o
Um, when your investment advisor said Brian, "play the stock market" this is not what he meant, but it might work out for you :))
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Hey everyone! I just purchased a sks. It's a mix match of numbers but the receiver, barrel, and trigger group are the same 3 mil. It was pretty ugly when I got it. lots of rust and almost no blue. It looked like someone had picked it of the battlefield dipped it in Cosmoline and crated it up. Full of burnt powder and red clay. It does have a beautiful wood grain on the stock.
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/Anthony_Schatzl/20150202_145925%20fix_zps0yh37gel.jpg)
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/Anthony_Schatzl/20150202_150021%20fix_zpstq6r89fq.jpg)
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/Anthony_Schatzl/20150202_150011%20fix_zps4bwmxgq7.jpg)
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/Anthony_Schatzl/20150202_145925_zpsytebwo3h.jpg)
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Wow, that is a very interesting stock aschatzl! It's got a definite mid five digit ghost S/N on it. That wood isn't the same as the later guns. I really wonder what the early ghost gun wood really is?
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Nice grain pattern. thumb1
Guessing yous stripped the stock down and left it bare wood?
Welcome aboard!
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Thanks :) I was going to refinish but after cleaning it up the gun has to much character.
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Thanks for the welcome. I didn't strip the wood, the finish was gone. Just sweated the cosmoline out.
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Thanks for the welcome. I didn't strip the wood, the finish was gone. Just sweated the cosmoline out.
Ah... gotcha. Not much (if any) finish left on alot of these. Guess its the sweated look where its cosmo free that I'm not used to seeing.
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Everything I've read says not to refinish that will hurt the value.
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What can one do not to hurt the value? or to Bubba it up?
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I know it's not a parts match rifle but I don't think it was ever refurbished (no refurbished marks that I can find) and I like the fact it tells a story with it having red clay under the butt plate.
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I would just lather it in mineral oil, let it soak in, reapply until it stop soaking it up.
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Thanks for the info :)