To Remove Cosmoline or Not to Remove Cosmoline?

[Newbie SKS]

I'm trying to figure out whether or not to remove the cosmoline from my Chinese SKS. I don't intend to shoot it, but rather make it a safe queen for occasional viewing. Is there a better preservative than cosmoline that I can apply to the metal and especially the bore to protect it better that would justify the time and effort in removing the cosmoline, or would the cosmoline suffice? Thanks in advance

[firstchoice]

Hey Newbie!

If you're "never" going to shoot it,...wait, what?  No, I understand. I have quite a few that I don't plan on firing, as well. I suppose you already own another/other SKS' that you shoot?
As far as something better for a preservative, it's a pretty effective rust and corrosion inhibitor. But I'd suggest checking out your SKS thoroughly to look for any small areas not covered that rust may have crept into through the years. The ones that I've left in cosmoline are usually what I felt that the original grease added to the collectibility somewhat. Like the fairly rare Albanian 56-1, a nice, early Chinese Type 56, or the Yugo's that came in fresh and new-looking from refurb with grease to spare. They came to the USA that way, one time. It's a small matter. But I'm a definite purist, so...

These are just my own opinions and others may have better knowledge or different opinions. Glad you joined us!

firstchoice

[Phosphorus32]

Welcome! 

+1 to what FC said 

If it’s one of the recent Chinese Type 56s out of Albania. Check it for coverage by the grease and any rust. If it’s one of the 1980s to 90s imports from China that survived these few decades in the U.S. with grease intact, it’s likely good to go (but I’d still look it over).

A lot of collectors swear by Rig gun grease for long term storage of guns, but I have no first hand experience with it. I live in a very dry climate with my firearms in a climate controlled environment so I haven’t felt the need for more than oiling my guns.

[Newbie SKS]

Thank you both. I'll look into RIG.

So, the YouTube videos on cleaning the SKS make it look so easy to remove the firing pin retaining pin, but I can't get mine out for the life of me. The bolt is saturated with cosmoline, but spraying brake cleaner around that retaining pin didn't help. Any suggestions?

[Cz315]

Personally, I remove cosmoline from all of mine. There is nothing more annoying to me than a thick coat on grease stuck on my fingers when I marvel at the beauty of SKS. There is nothing better than cosmoline for long term storage, but as long as they are oiled/greased well and stored properly, rust is not an issue. Your mileage may vary.

The firing pin retaining pin can be punched out, but don't go crazy on it. Make sure you place the bolt on a proper block for it to come out. If it hasn't been moved much (or ever) it won't move like you see on those YouTube video's - I have yet to find one where you can move out with a gentle push. 

[running-man]

I'd vote with CZ on removing the grease for the same reasons.  I have exactly one firearm in my collection that has the original preservative on it (my Long Barrel Yugo) and that one doesn't get brought out and admired at all because of it even though it should!  Maybe one day I'll clean her up, but for now $$ wise it makes sense to leave it as-is.

As for the retaining pin on the bolt.  I'd tell you two things: 

#1) I hate (HATE) to see videos of guys banging the hell out of their bolt assemblies with a hammer and punch.  The guys using a pointed punch are really playing with fire IMO but I guess those retaining pins are still somewhat available out there for when the tail gets buggered up and mushroomed.  I know this is the way 99% of everyone does it, but it rots me to no end.  Why risk hammering a critical component like a bolt?  I prefer to use a simple press with an undersized pin.  I've even used my dad's 1960's drill press in a pinch and it worked really well.  All my firing pins can come out w/o a lot of effort.

#2) Having said that, I understand that not everyone has a press and sometimes pins are fit in place with a ridiculously heavy press fit.  If a hammer and flat bottomed punch have to be used, you have to have a very solid base.  I tell people to utilize a 1/2" drive socket to set the bolt on with the retaining pin head able to fall into the cavity created by the interior of the socket.  Set the whole thing down on a very sturdy concrete sidewalk or on the body of a bench vise if you have one, and apply persuasion until that pin comes out.  It will come.

[Greasemonkey]

Grease..  I'm used to it after years of heavy equipment, tractors and heavy trucks.. ever rebuilt a honey wagon 5th wheel.. oh joy..    Usually, I just remove the grease from the touchy feely places if I opt not to fire it. Later if I choose to shoot it, I'll go all the way in cleaning.

[lowell66dart]

I have only purchased two rifles with cosmoline on them. One was a Yugo that was loaded with it and when cleaned up was perfect, no rust.
Recently purchased a Chinese rifle and there was quite a bit of rust despite the cosmoline. I would break it down and inspect it.

[Newbie SKS]

For those who have used RIG gun grease, do you need to remove it before firing, or can you just leave it on?

[1mlt]

My "opinion", clean it.

[Phosphorus32]

For those who have used RIG gun grease, do you need to remove it before firing, or can you just leave it on?

I only leave grease on safe queens that don't get fired. Leaving a very thin layer of grease or Rig underneath the wood is probably fine, assuming you only fire a few rounds per trip, slow fire, and hence don't get the rifle very hot. However, any grease will eventually flow and bleed into the stock. Of course, no grease in the bolt, gas system, barrel, etc. 

[firstchoice]

I'll second Phos32's RIG Grease suggestion. I've used it exclusively for 30+ years. It works great.  If I have something I'm not going to fire for a while, I can wipe a coat of RIG over it and it's good to go. It's NOT as thick as Cosmoline, so it can be wiped off easily and taken to the range without a half days' degrease & clean-up job.

As Phos said, if you do use the RIG or any other grease/oil on the bolt, gas system, barrel, trigger group, etc., you need to thoroughly clean those parts before firing. Especially the bolt and firing pin. The firing pin is free floating on Chinese models and needs to slide back and forth easily with NO sticking. IT HAS TO BE CLEAN!    Ya get some strange results when pulling the trigger or even letting the bolt fly forward to chamber a round. Surprise!          Definitely not safe. And cold weather seems to exacerbate the issue. Old cosmoline or thick grease almost turns solid in really cold weather. Ask me how I know....    

Post up some pics of your SKS when you get the chance. We like to ogle the fine specimens!

firstchoice

[Jimbo302]

If I wanted to truly preserve it, I would take it all the way apart and thoroughly clean it before treating each piece with your choice of oils/ material dedicated treatments.

[Condorcet]

I'm trying to figure out whether or not to remove the cosmoline from my Chinese SKS. I don't intend to shoot it, but rather make it a safe queen for occasional viewing. Is there a better preservative than cosmoline that I can apply to the metal and especially the bore to protect it better that would justify the time and effort in removing the cosmoline, or would the cosmoline suffice? Thanks in advance

Elmer Fudd chiming in here:  Johnson's paste wax (the floor wax that comes in a round yellow can in the household cleaners aisle at Walmart) is an effective long-term protectant) for metal parts. Stuff such as SKS bolt internals (firing pin and channel, etc.) I second the motion to use Rig grease on those parts. Most well-run armies would pull war reserve rifles from storage every few years and check their condition, re-cosmolining if needed. I think Yugoslavia did that on a five year basis).

An added benefit of having a can of the paste wax on hand is that it's also a very effective, cheap and easily removed "release agent" if you ever glass bed a rifle. Cleans up with just wiping the metal down with solvent.