The Practical SKS

[cwogrant]

THE PRACTICAL SKS
By Michael Grant
December 22, 2020

I have been tinkering with my Norinco SKS for over twenty years and thought I would share my “lessons learned” with those who want a truly useful rifle. There are many accessories for this rifle and I have tried nearly all of them. You can save yourself a lot of time and money by reading this article.

WHAT THE SKS IS NOT
The SKS is not a sniper rifle; it is not a high-tech tactical black rifle; is not a less expensive version of the AK-47; and it is not a piece of junk. It is a very well-built general purpose 30-caliber rifle. I have spent a lot of time on the range with my SKS and it has never jammed in its original configuration. The AR-15 and AK-47 type rifles are very popular on the range and I always see people having problems with them.

My current version (shown below) will put meat on the table or defend the homestead with absolute reliability. It is true carbine length (39.75 inches), has a 13.5-inch pull and will consistently shoot two-inch groups at 100 yards with good ammo.

 

STOCK
There are all kinds of stocks available for the SKS and I have tried most of them. I also made quite a few in search of the perfect stock. First of all, use only a wood stock. Plastic and composite stocks will melt and the SKS is more than capable of getting that hot. The best stock, in my opinion, is the original hardwood stock that is pictured above (I originally thought is was Asian Mahogany but now believe it is Catalpa). Strip the original finish with Easy-Off oven cleaner (original non-scented version) and steel wool. No kidding, you will be surprised at how well it works. Sand the wood with 220 grit sandpaper and brush on Tung oil varnish thinned with mineral spirits. Let each coat dry. Coat all areas and let it soak in; this will seal the wood against moisture. Keep applying coats until it is no longer absorbed – then put one or two more coats of Tung oil (not thinned) and buff with 000 steel wool for whatever luster suits your taste.

I cut a piece of wood from a damaged stock and glued it in the bayonet slot, which improves the appearance and provides a more comfortable grip. In addition, I drilled holes in the wood to allow more airflow for barrel cooling. I also wanted a more conventional sling setup so I removed the sling bracket on the gas block to clean up the appearance. A standard single wood screw type sling swivel can be easily attached to the cleaning rod hole but requires removing some wood from the stock for the head of the machine screw.



I didn’t like the pull length and all of the add-on spacers/butt pads looked terrible. So I cut the stock flush and sanded a 1.5-inch extension, made for the SKS, so it was flat on the bottom and the correct fit for the stock. This provides a comfortable 13.5-inch pull length and looks like original equipment.



BARREL
The 20.5-inch barrel is a bit long for a carbine and more length than is needed for a short (39mm) rifle cartridge. A shorter barrel is also less susceptible to vibration, which improves accuracy during rapid firing. I shortened the barrel by 2 inches (1 inch forward of the rear of the bayonet assembly), finished the muzzle in an 11-degree target crown and threaded the last half-inch with 14x1mm left-hand threads.

I also reinstalled the original front sight (minus the bayonet hardware) and secured it with a tap, not a pin. The tap locks the sight in place so it will not move even if bumped. Do this by drilling one size under for a 6-32 tap (#37 drill). Slowly work the tap in (use oil) until it is all the way through and locks up, then cut the ends off and grind smooth.



The flash suppressor is an M-16 “birdcage” type with AK-47 left-hand threads. I drilled all the way through with a 0.5-inch bit (not damaging the threads) and threaded the entire length. I then cut off everything behind the first taper and smoothed out the base. When installed, the flash ports are flush with the muzzle crown, which provides for maximum suppressor effectiveness with minimum disruption of the air flow as the bullet leaves the muzzle. The flared end meets the front sight assembly and looks like it came installed from the factory. Another benefit of the flash suppressor is that it protects the muzzle of the barrel from getting damaged.



HANDGUARD
The hand guard/gas tube assemblies are easily replaceable and allow quite a bit of flexibility.  I have the original wood assembly and the vented steel one pictured above. The vented steel guard is normally held in place with springs; however, these allow it to rattle and the springs will move under recoil. The guard also tends to rust under the lips of the tube assembly. I fixed this problem by securing the ends with high temperature RTV sealant when I installed the ferrule. It does not rattle and I don’t have to worry about rust forming between the guard and the tube assembly.
 
BOLT/CARRIER
The standard SKS free-floating firing pin will result in a “runaway” weapon with Western manufacture ammunition. I know this for a fact because it happened to me. After which, I replaced the stock firing pin with one from Murray’s Gunsmithing that has a return spring. Problem solved. FYI – the SKS is very controllable on full-auto.

I also replaced the stock bolt carrier with one from an Albanian SKS and removed about 3/16 inch from the end of the charging handle. This reduces the snag hazard and gives it more of an M-1 carbine look.



SIGHTS
The factory sights on the SKS are as good as any other “iron” sights. I have tried the Williams sights and the result was reduced accuracy. The reason is that they are made to fit all SKS rifles and therefore will have some side play. The original rear sight had a little play in it so I bought another that turned out to be a perfect (snug) fit. I have had consistent accuracy with the fixed sights ever since.

TRIGGER GROUP
I polished all of the contact surfaces with a fine sharpening stone and installed a “Wolf spring kit”. The Wolf hammer spring combined with the Murray’s firing pin resulted in misfires with Russian ammo. That problem went away when I reinstalled the original hammer spring. The trigger pull was acceptable even with the stock hammer spring.

MAGAZINE
Forget the high-capacity magazines! I have tried them all and none are as reliable as the stock fixed magazine. Besides, the magazines are dead weight. You can carry more ammunition with the stripper clips than with the magazines for any given weight. In addition, it takes less time to insert a clip than it does to change out a magazine.

The only modification I made to the magazine was to add a small oblong hole in the bottom of the well. This provides for drainage should you find yourself in a wet environment.



SCOPE MOUNT
This rifle really does not need a scope. The fixed sights are more than adequate for anything you are likely to shoot – this is not a long-range rifle. That being said, I did add a scope to compensate for deteriorating eyesight (getting old sucks). The majority of the SKS scope mounts sold today require significant gunsmithing; prevent you from field stripping the weapon for cleaning; or simply don’t work. The receiver type scope mounts are the most versatile and do not alter weapon in any fashion. They do have to be properly fitted to work correctly. Always buy a new mount. A used mount may already be too short for your receiver.

Remove the receiver cover, spring, bolt and carrier. Install the scope mount and note how much overhang there is at the rear of the receiver. File enough off of the two front prongs equally until the receiver pin will ALMOST go in. Finish the job with a medium sharpening stone until the receiver pin goes in with a little force and oil. You want it tight because it will loosen up over time. This fits the mount longitudinally.

If there is lateral movement at the forward end of the mount, where the prongs engage the receiver, simply spread the cover to increase its width. The metal is relatively thin and does not require much force. I used tin snips placed about one-half inch behind the front edge to spread the cover. Do not apply force directly to the prongs as this will bend them outward, which will cause the mount to loosen up under recoil.

With the receiver pin out, check the mount for lateral play (fishtail) both left and right. If there is zero play, which is not likely, then you are done. If there is, square the mount on the receiver (aligned right and left) and take note of the gaps/play.

If there is lateral movement at the aft end of the mount, use an arc or wire welder to run a bead on the left and/or right side of the cover tang (where the pin goes through). Use the same procedure as above (file/stone) to fit the tang.

Check for play after fully installing the mount (with a dial indicator if you have one). Repeat the procedure if there is still lateral play. When you are done, you will have a good scope mount that can be swapped out with no significant loss in accuracy. I have been doing this for years with good results.

The picture below shows the rifle in its hunting configuration with the wood hand guard, a 5-shot magazine and Leapers 4x32 scope. I also installed a buffer in the receiver cover to dampen recoil to the scope. For those of you who do not need the magnification, a red dot sight has proven to be very effective with this scope mount.

 

It is important to keep the scope as low to the mount as possible and provide clearance for the stripper clips. I created a depression to accommodate the objective bell of the scope by grinding the forward part of the scope rail with a hand drill and a 1.5-inch grinding stone. This provides for correct eye and head position; allows you to easily move between scope and iron sights (see-through mount); and leaves ample clearance for reloading.
 
ALTER-EGO
I am not immune to the “coolness” factor, which is why I really like the SKS. Parts are relatively cheap so you can have all kinds of fun with the rifle. The one custom stock I did keep is my folder made from a “Yugo” rifle stock and a Butler Creek shotgun folder. The pistol grip is solid oak and has a groove that allows removal of the trigger group. I added a Bushnell TRS-25 red dot sight for quick acquisition and low light capability.

 

I chose the shotgun folder because they are angled to clear the shotgun ejection port and I wanted that angle for correct ergonomics. With the downward angle on the metal stock, the iron sights align naturally when you put the butt pad in your shoulder and rotate up to shooting position. Another good reason to keep the fixed magazine is that the folding stock is legal in many states as long as you do not have a detachable magazine.

FOR THE SKEPTICS
I hear all of the time about what a piece of junk the SKS is. The target shown here is from the last time I adjusted the factory sights. The target measures 7.5 inches across at the outer circle and the rings are graduated at one minute of angle (MOA) each. The three lower holes are before I adjusted the front sight (yes – I pulled one). The three holes around the bullseye are after my final adjustment. This was at 100 yards with iron sights and cheap Russian (Brown Bear) ammunition. I don’t know of any other 30-caliber semi-automatic rifle that will do better for the money, and I paid a just a little over $100 for my SKS in new/unfired condition in 1996, including shipping and FFL transfer fee.

[echo1]

Hello Michael and welcome aboard. Nice intro, write up, and rifle, but use caution with any "definitive" modification. This must be your onliest SKS.

Been there done that. I acquired a rifle precut to 18.5 and liked it so much I got a couple barreled receivers from SARCO and took the hack saw to them as well. One is in a SG bull pup with an Alby carrier. I had a home grown Para in a Choate Drag with an Alby carrier too. Currently that rifle is in a Para stock with the wider bayo slot filled in as well, it too is sportin a cheese grater. Looks a lot like yours but with a shorter barrel and no butt extention. My next endeavor is to build an "Alby" looking Paratrooper, with an Alby stock, carrier, & mag.

You're slightly off base with the poly stocks warping due to usage and there is a way to secure receiver cover mounts. PAX

Forgot to add that my 7.62X51 Sar8 (Greek HK91) will shoot MOA to 300 yards all day and tomorrow too. The Vinny 7MM FN49 is no slouch either, another tack driver but not 30 cal. Again, use caution with definitive statements.

[Phosphorus32]

Welcome!

A lot of interesting modifications. Nice flash hider setup. The threaded barrel end is definitely the only way to go for longevity and reliability. 

I have roughly four dozen SKSs from 7 of the 8 countries. Only one has a spring loaded firing pin, a 1950 SKS-45. I haven't shot them all but none of them have ever done a mag dump or even a double fire, using a wide variety of ammo. I know it happens, but I think it's generally a cleaning issue. The Russians started with a spring-loaded firing pin and then discarded it within two years of starting main production. None of the other countries ever re-adopted the spring. Perhaps I haven't run across the ammo with thin hyper-sensitive primers that are more likely to detonate from a light firing pin strike upon the bolt returning to battery. Cleaning out the firing pin channel and firing pin and making sure they are free of corrosion or burrs seems to do the trick, in my experience.

None of the manufacturers used mahogany for their stocks.

[carls sks]

hi Michael and welcome. good to have you here. interesting read, thanks for sharing.

[Greasemonkey]

Welcome  My experience is similar to P32. No slamfires in many years and many many brands of ammo, got my first in '99. Accuracy, each rifle has their favorite I find, even though they are very close in spec, I have one that loves Golden Tiger, but Wolf Black box, not so much. Accuracy and function is pretty much the same regardless if 16.5 or 20.5 inch barrel, not a lot of difference. I do own...quite a few and I'm speaking only from my experience. Like Aks, never had an issue with any of them them I currently own.

Mahogany was never a choice in stocks from any SKS factory, elm(Yugos depends on the wood cut), beech, Arctic birch, chu... catalpa wood and laminate.

[astronut]

Welcome to the forum!  As the above have stated, I as well have never had a slam fire or a full auto episode from any of the 21 SKS rifles I have owned over the years. 

[Sword of Симонова]

I appreciate the post, did you ever use a laminate stock from Timber Smiths?
What brand/style receiver mount are you using?
Did you do any bedding to the receiver?

[cwogrant]

Thanks for all the feedback. Just for the record - my intent was not to present the only options for the SKS, just share my experience.

As for the wood stock - I don't know for certain what the wood is, but I was into woodworking (furniture) for a while and it looks very much like Asian Mahogany. I have had other SKS stocks that were light in color (probably Birch), but clearly a different wood. I liked the Timber Smiths stocks but didn't want to pay more for a stock than I paid for the rifle. Besides, making stocks is fun. And there is no point in bedding a rifle of this type - it will have no noticeable effect on accuracy (I have built several precision rifles).

The scope mount is Norinco and has very nice fit and finish. The main benefit of fitting this type of mount is that there are no set screws or other stabilizing devices that require re-sighting after removal for cleaning and can scratch the receiver.

I am well aware of the need to keep the firing pin and channel clean and can state with confidence that a stuck pin was not the cause. I checked the pin, put two rounds in the magazine and got the same result. It may have been overly-sensitive Western ammo; however, going full-auto was interesting and really gets you noticed on the range.

[Greasemonkey]

Just to throw it out there, always have a extra firing pin or two. Just a slight bow in it can cause it to hang in the bolt when under pressure. It's hard to duplicate the pressure when in use, the force between the hammer and primer could cause a bow and it to hang for that split second if it wasn't made with the correct hardness. It can also aid in troubleshooting, and it's fairly cheap insurance.  I've even shot both of my MAS 49/56s with commercial ammo and the factory pin and no slam fires, another reported rifle that will slam fire, there was even once a light weight titanium firing pin made for it to fix the issue, and a Garand can do the same thing..

[running-man]

Shape of the FP tip has a part to play as well.  Tips that have jagged edges, sharp corners, very low frontal surface areas, or other discontinuities increase the risk of a slamfire (as well as pierced primers in ex-Iron Curtain produced Berdan primed steel cased ammo) tremendously.  I think this is an often overlooked item, everyone automatically goes to a gunk filled FP channel (which admittedly is usually 90% the cause), but you almost never hear of FP tip issues even though they exist and do cause problems. 

Here is a SinoBanian bolt with a horrible FP tip.  Repeatedly spat out pierced primers and the last straw was a slam fire with two rounds.  Knew I had to do something with it.



After I stoned the tip to a nice full radius, absolutely zero problems with the gun.

[Larry D.]

Hello and welcome, Michael.

That folder is kinda sexy.

[cwogrant]

After doing some research I believe the wood stock is indeed Catalpa (aka, Chu wood). The appearance of the wood can change drastically depending on the orientation when sawed for lumber. I never used this type of wood for furniture but it has a reputation for stability and durability to the elements, which makes it a logical choice for a rifle stock.



Thanks for the input - the whole purpose of sharing information is to expand the knowledge base and hopefully learn something new.

[Greatguns]

My understanding is the wood primarily used for the Chinese stocks is Chu wood, but that may translate to Catalpa. Somewhere it has been recorded that the Chinese were not picky on which wood was used so they probably just used whatever was available at the time.

[1mlt]

I've been making "adapters" for the SKS rifle since 2008 to run high capacity mags. They ALL run perfectly. SO, no, you do not need to run just the 10 round internal. One customer who bought a G3 contacted me to let me know (claims) he has fired "about 10,000 rounds" w/o a jamb. We pitched the approach angle up a "touch". The bullet has a better angle to the chamber. I have an online e-commerce store here in this forum.
Marcus

[cwogrant]

Thanks for the info Marcus - looks like you have nice conversion kit for using detachable mags. Just for clarification; my statement that "I tried them all" in referring to high capacity mags is as of around 2005 (before your product was available). However, it is still true that detachable magazines are dead weight and don't provide any real benefit for most civilian uses of the SKS, unless you are planning to take it into combat, which I would not recommend for a host of reasons (been there - done that). But the fact that someone finally came up with a decent conversion kit for the SKS is good to know.