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Did you contact Lucky Shot and ask them if it is supposed to be in there? No aftermarket stock has one and Walnut is a lot stronger than Chinese Chu wood so maybe they don't think it needs it.If it is then send it back for them to finish. The issue also will be whether you have threaded or pinned barrel which puts the cross-bolt in different positions. If they don't know what you have then they can't do that inletting or cut.
Glad you brought this to light, SCC30Arms!
You're going to want to mortice the initial small hole you drill into a square hole that will prevent the whole crossbolt from rotating. Aside from getting the position correct in relation to your gun (and perhaps the depth and concentricity of the counterbore on either side) this is going to be the hardest operation as just a little bit of extra slop will allow the crossbolt to spin. The counterbore depths will determine whether the crossbolt nut holds the crossbolt snugly or whether the nut bottoms out as it runs out of thread and the crossbolt remains loose, I had a SinoBanian with a replacement Albanian stock that had the crossbolt counterbores drilled too deep and it was definitely loosey goosey. This is going to be a fun project, perhaps a bit of a nail biter to get the crossbolt 'perfect', but fun nonetheless. Good luck!
There is a 1/8" difference in placement of the cross-bolt between a threaded barrel and a pinned barrel. If you have both types of barreled SKSs remove the mags and and look at where the action rests on the cross-bolt. On a threaded barrel the cross-bolt on the locking collar(either short or long) in front of the receiver. Because a pinned barrel does not have the locking collar they milled a flat spot on the bottom front of the receiver and moved the cross-bolt location back proportionately. Check the fit of the stock on your action. A snuggle, light friction fit is really good. You really don't want front to back play in the stock. The cross-bolt helps maintain front to back play as it prevents the action shifting forward during discharge thus assisting in recoil. The nominal measurement, from the back of the in-letting on the stock for the action(the fire control group[FCG] latch tang that goes through the stock) to the rear edge of the cross-bolt(flat portions facing top and rear), is 8 7/8" for a pinned barrel and 9" for a threaded barrel.The tangs or pins on the inside of the cross-bolt that you drew the red arrow for is to lock the bolt in place on the stock and relief cuts should be made in the wood to allow for those. You want it to be tight as that helps keep the cross-bolt from turning. That part of the bolt would be on the left side of the stock. You do not turn the bolt on these, you turn the nut only otherwise, you will strip out the wood. The slot on the bolt is only to apply a screw driver to help hold the bolt still while removing the nut. Heavy duty snap ring pliers are needed for the nut removal, 90 degree work best. IIRC the slots for the tangs are at 12 and 6 O'clock. To be honest I'm not sure what RM is referring to on the squaring up of the hole on this, I have not seen that only round with the indexing slots in the wood for the pins/tangs on the cross-bolt.
To be honest I'm not sure what RM is referring to on the squaring up of the hole on this, I have not seen that only round with the indexing slots in the wood for the pins/tangs on the cross-bolt.